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I appreciate the kind words. But there are lots of guys who can do same things I do...10.0's out of a SB these days is not that difficult in typical A body.

Depending on vehicle weight & efficiency you'll need to be in the low 600's HP wise to get there in a typical bracket setup. The car has alot to do with the ET. I've had 610 HP motors run in the 9.70's @ 3100 LBS & I've had 675 HP motors off same dyno run 9.80's @ 3200 LBS... you can figure out which chassis setup/coverter etc worked better. HP is'nt everything when it comes to building a quick car.


Thanks for the info, could you do it using a 360/380 hp magnum crate motor with the iron heads ?



Not with the pistons/rods that came in the Crate motor. You probably could for a few passes, but I would'nt build it with those parts.

Last crate motor I worked on had piston to valve clearance issues with a mild hyd roller. That was a 10.60 piece & that was about as far as I'd want to push a 380 crate.

There is a difference between guy in their garage going & taking 360 Crate & slamming some big heads on it & running fast for couple passes & a reputable shop that has to build the thing & make it live for 400+ passes etc & put their reputation on it surviving. Anything that comes through the door with stock rods or Eagle SIR's does not leave my hands without a rod upgrade. I just can't half ass stuff like that, it's not worth the job. But you'll get guys who will tell you, sure, throw a set of W2/5/INDY's on it & a big cam & you'll have a 10.0 piece... But I would'nt do it.

The only part I'd use from the 380 crate for a reliable 10.0 3100+ LB A body would be the 360 block.

Now if your car is 2500 LBS that is whole different story.


Thanks again, ill just sell the crate motor then. Will call you tomm on priceing for the build. thanks, fred

71 Demon