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I do a LOT of mig welding and know just what you're talking about. Here's my solution ...

1) back your head away further - there is no need to have your face any closer than 18". This will also mean breathing less smoke! I use a 2 power magnfirer lens to do just that.You can get them in a few differnent X powers.

2) when possible, watch the weld more from the open side. Yepper!

3) set the shade around 10

4) position your hands such that you can run the bead by moving only your wrists or if its a long run position yourself so that you would move parallel to the bead. If you can run a finger or wrist along an edge or surface as a guide that helps too. Go through the whole weld motion first to make sure you're positioned correctly, then do the weld. If you've positioned yourself correctly you should be able to run the bead with your eyes closed - REALLY! I can eat a samwich and weld overhead. Practice is right on the money!

5) spacing the pieces to be welded or bevelling the parts will also give you a line to follow. You can also mark a line with soapstone.

6) watch closely - the arc will distort slightly at the joint and give you a path to follow

7) practice, practice, practice !! Never enough Practice.

8) Try rolling the tip in small circles, from one peice up to the other peice. Just to tie both together and flow the joint. Or try doing small C's. It should look like a stack of coins layed over.

Those are tig welds but mig welds by no means have to look crude. In fact, most race cars are migged and the welds are very nice. It just takes the right gas, machine and PRACTICE.

Those photos are taken with camera lenses and I know of no welding shield that will give you that level of visibility for mig.

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