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I agree that this sounds like either a starter relay--you must ground the brown connection at the relay through a WIRE, not the light, to get it to work, then check the brown wire and down to the neutral safety.

Here's the thing that may be screwing you up for start----when you put the key in run, and manually jumper the starter relay to crank the engine, you are not receiving the coil resistor bypass for a hot spark in start--that's the job of the key, ign 2 contacts.

This means that you get a weak spark in this condition. One thing you can do is DURING CRANK, and remove soon after, Use a clip lead from the starter relay stud or other hot source---like the alternator stud--directly to the coil pos, or the coil side of the ballast.



Good sugestions gentleman.

I had suspected that the test light was not giving me a good enough ground to fire the starter.

I was contemplating on making a temporary jumper with some 14 Ga wire and good clips to go from the terminal to the - battery terminal. This way i could isolate if it is the N/S or its wiring.

I recently put in a new N/S just to cover a base when i put the rebuilt tranny back in. I checked the position of the contact arm in the tranny and it appeared to be in line.

I will try a new starter relay later this week.

I guess my next question is to why won't it run when I jump the relay? I did not pull a plug or plug wire and test for spark...I just could sort of tell from the way it was turning over.

BTW...the key was in Run while jumping.

Last edited by 71383bee; 05/27/08 12:22 AM.
'73 GK6 Challenger Rallye - 340 4-Speed