Quote:

The primary PV I have is a 5.5 standard
not a high flow valve.



OK, that means it's open at vacuum levels below 5.5 in hg (and is richening the mixture), and closed at vacuum levels above 5.5. This assumes the PV is working properly. Put a vacuum gauge in the car and be sure the vacuum doesn't drop below 5.5 at 3200/70 mph when it goes rich. Not likely, but you need to know.

Quote:

I run 11 InHg at idle so I thought that would be really close to the right
one.



Don't get too hung up on idle vacuum vs. PV rating. You've got a wideband meter - choose the power valve that opens when heavy throttle/heavy load causes the mixture to go lean. You seem to be having the opposire problem, however.

Quote:

I've jetted the carb from the stock 65's to
68's because it was running well into the 16's
at 2500 rpm before and now it's right about 14.5
I will get it out on the highway and see if it
gets richer, but from memory it doesn't cruising
but running wot for extended time get it down into
low 11's. I have 68's in the secondaries but
didn't want to go smaller yet. Initial wot gives
a low 14 for about 2 seconds then she goes to
low 11's.



Forget about the secondaries and WOT AFR for now - save that for last. It's too rich at WOT, and that's good - for now. Rich is safe. If you plan on messing with the primary side, you'll probably make changes that will ultimately upset the WOT readings. Work on getting the primary side right, then when you're sure it's just like you want it, work on the secondary side. To work on the seondary side now is a waste of effort and time.


Quote:

Should I wire shut the secondaries and
see how it goes? was thinking she would run way
lean at higher rpms.



Only if you think they're popping open at 3200 and causing your rich condition. This must be a vacuum secondary carb, right? Does it have screw in air bleeds or pressed in?

If you're in the 14 neighborhood at 2500, you're halfway home!