Originally Posted by topside
I would think that someone could map out the floor contour.
Then fab tooling (maybe using CAD or whatever) to make a shallower but thicker replacement piece.
Or maybe make a 1/4" plate, formed to match the floor contour, for welding in.
There would seem to be a market for such a thing.


I used a 1/4" steel plate about 4 inches wide and just over 2 feet long welded through the floor pan to the top on the remaining cross member. I had to heat the steel band red hot to bend it and spent time getting it to match the original floor's contour.

I also welded most of the original torsion cross member solidly to the floor pan when I installed the full US Cartool Chassis Stiffening kit. I cut the actual tunnel portion of the cross member down flush, but left the factory flanges and boxed the bottom of the trimmed crossover back in with like-sized steel. I did this fab work with the torsion bars out.

In my case, this was done to fit an overdrive automatic. I may soon be doing further modification, as I'm putting in an even larger automatic to accommodate a more powerful engine.

These are the only pictures that I currently have of the lower modified crossover. I was able to retain the factory cross member bolt locations.

200R4 4.jpg200R4 5.jpg
Last edited by jbc426; 12/19/23 06:31 PM.

1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)