Originally Posted by ackpht


At first set up with no vacuum advance and about 8 base, car would idle at 900 rpm and 9 inches vacuum (with throttles closed), but top end wasn't great. hooked up vacuum advance to manifold vacuum (side port on front carb), and it went to about 1300 rpm at 23 degrees. WOT much improved (honest, officer...) What happened to 2000 rpm, I dunno.

Pulled a plug (only an hour or so of run time) and it was brown. Ecch. A/F says 14.7 at idle, lean while cruising (about 2200 rpm). Don't dare take my eyes off the road at WOT to read the meter. But it's spending a lot of time at idle in the garage while I mess with the settings.

Timing readings a bit erratic as timing light is having problems triggering with this car (ok with others, clip is "pointed" the right way). But right now it looks like 1300 rpm at 25 degrees advance (base 11) and 15 inches of manifold vacuum. If I switch to ported vacuum (port on front of rear AFB), the rpm and advance don't change. I think I should close up the holes on the throttle plates and tweak the mixture screws (all four) for best idle.

hammer


Switching to ported vacuum with no change indicates and issue with that port as there should be NO VACUUM there UNLESS the primary butterflies are too far open. Also note your manifold vacuum at WOT is likely pretty low ( meaning no advance) as using manifold vacuum typically is only beneficial for cruising ( here come the argments wink ) if you happen to pull the carbs, measure the hole size, and hold them up to a bright light to see if the plates are centered as best as possible in the bores. If not slightly lossen the screw and center them. An off center plate can hold the throttle open increasing the RPM at idle. You can also check the opening for the ported vacuum which should be closed off and fully above the blades
twocents