I used to run the MP windage tray in my 360 build, and for that I think it did what it was meant to do. But that was with a factory oil pan that had some oil baffled welded in.
In my 408 stroker, which has the Milodon 30940 pan that's 8 quarts, I measured things up prior to the assembly, and given that that pan already has a pretty extensive baffle setup, I simply did NOT install the windage tray. I had two to chose from, the original MP or the Milodon one.
Attached is a pic with the dispstick showing the 8 quart "oil-line" (but reversed since the motor is flipped around on the engine stand). This btw is with the crank counterweights at their longest 'reach', meaning the full counterweight is showing.
How is it working out?
Well, the motor seems to be happy, I have good oil pressure, although at idle (800-850) I get down to about 15 PSI with my 10W30 oil grade. This is sufficient, although I would prefer another 5-10 PSI extra.
And what happens to that oil level when the oil is hot and thin as water and you step on the brakes? Or put your foot in it? Baffles and oil level don’t do anything for that.
Running 10-30 oil if there was an issue with that I would see it on my RacePak readout like I did on my Canton oil pan.
Uncovering the pickup isn’t the only thing to look at, although if you are uncovering the pickup you will be crapping out parts pretty quick.
When I get my garbage on the dyno I’m going to test it without a windage tray and crank scraper, with a windage tray and no scraper, a scraper and no windage tray and then with both the windage tray and the scraper.
I do know when I put it together the last time I picked up 8-10 psi oil pressure everywhere. That tells me the crank scraper is doing work. It also means if that is the case I can drop down to a standard volume pump and that saves some horsepower (maybe).
