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hook no1 to a keyed ignitions source through a diode.



The diode is important, otherwise you will have a "run on" condition after you turn the key off.




I found the way around that problem....
you just have to hook the #1 wire to the ACC side of the ing switch instead of the run side Ron...





You don't want to do that. I'll guarantee you --unless these units have been changed electrically by GM--that if you do that long enough you'll blow up a diode trio. I don't remember all the "ins and outs" but there are situations where the diode trio can "try" to become the source (charge, or supply source) and they won't handle much amperage. The original cars had a resistor / lamp combo, so you either need that or the diode.



I don't know what you mean by "long enough" but last year I had a charging problem and the run on issue and with my 40 dodge PU with the gm alt and I was tring different things with the # 1 wire and the #2 wire and after talking with a bunch of streetrod guys we figured out that the reason it was running when the key was turned off was because it was being feed from the #1 wire to the Ing run side and I needed to either put a lite in line like GM does or just get the power to the #1 wire from the ACC side. so that is what I did and for 8 month now it works just fine Ron..



I think you misunderstood. It WILL work "just fine" for ahwile, but you need the diode/ or resistor/ light in there to protect the diode trio in the regulator. By "long enough" I mean "some period of time." Might be a week. Might be a year. I don't remember the mechanics of this failure, but there are/ is a certain condition which can cause the trio to become a source of power and the small trio diodes won't handle the load. This is a well documented failure, and is why the no1 is hooked up this way