For longer than stock studs you may have to pull the axle but for stock length studs you can replace them without pulling the axle. The longer studs may not clear the brake backing plate when maneuvering them in from the back of the flange.


There are tools to press in and remove studs.

This one is fancy
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4295-Wheel-Stud-Service/dp/B009B2M3YO

Most are just a thrust bearing like this.
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-24235-Truck-Wheel-Installer/dp/B01MRWOWJZ


I have never used them. I draw mine in with a lug nut or hard Grade 8 Nut and a stack of greased washers. Warshers here in the south.

I stack a few greased washers over the stud and place the flat side of the lug nut against the washers.

I tighten until I feel a definite stop as the mushroom head seats against the back of the flange.

I don't use an impact wrench (less strain on the threads and I can feel the stud seating ) and I make sure the washers at the bottom of the stack have a hole large enough to clear any shoulder on the stud.

Works like a charm.