It seems that this alternator to disconnect switch situation is getting way overthought, injecting too many new variables into the mix. Actual time required for protection is being overlooked. All these switch related solutions rely on driver or track crew recognition and appropriate response to operate. Not a good situation in emergency. All that is needed in the B+(output) cable between the alternator and the battery side of the master diconnect switch is an AMG or AMI 100 or 125 amp slow-blow fuse. If the alternator or its charge wire becomes shorted to ground this fuse will do it's job in seconds, much quicker and more reliable than any human interaction, which I think is actually the primary reason for this circuit in the first place. It saves using the master disconnect switch to turn off the energizing coils for soleniod based systems, when parked. Stored vehicles should always have the negative battery terminal disconnected.With a bolted terminal style fuse arrangement there are no moving parts to wear out or fail on race day. The alterntor and it's charge circuit are then protected from a direct short 24/7 even if the negative cable isn't disconnected when parked. So many high end cars are manufactured this way. Hope this helps. Also, this fuse should be as close to the disconnect B+ terminal as possible to protect the wire from shorting too. Bill