Are you heads up or a bracket guy?

Because if your a bracket guy, why hit the convertor at 4200? You can lower that down...It will affect where you hit the tree, but all that can be re-tuned with front tire pressure and other little tricks like the front shock extension clickers...etc. I typically leave off the brake at 2k-2.4k, but last year looking for ET, I turned it up to 4k and then the wheelies were big enough to bounce the front end. I turned it back down the next weekend. Mines programable, and I don't need any chips. You just need to lift them a little to transfer all the weight.

If you have to run the convertor so high, I would defiantly lower the damn wheelie bars...Why have them if you aren't going to use them. Make sure you have fresh gr8 hardware on them too! From there, I would program a custom timing curve and back some of the timing down...This is probably the easiest way to manage the power and be able to adapt to track conditions.

I am not nearly as fast as you guys, but I plan on sneaking into the 9.30/5.80 zone this year, so we will see. I do not run any wheelie bars....So keeping the front down is kinda part of the game.

Last edited by Dragula; 03/01/21 05:24 PM.

'70 Cuda,...605 EFI Hemi Street Car (6.20 best pass, 1.33 60ft)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYw6RA-k5Bk (6.25 at 108.75mph from inside car)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zQEb9uxFng (6.25 at 108mph from outside car)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JCvfzsC4NgM (9.9)

'66 Barracuda AWB Stretched nose Blown 440 Car in build stage

'71 Duster Drag Car 400 Low Deck 512 best 6.002 at 115.44mph
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Znuo3jMUXTk