So last week, I created this thread in the Q&A Section here:
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthread...g-problem-i-cant-seem-to-figure-out.htmlNo matter what I did, I was unable to get the new, replacement switches to work. I used 3 Standard Motor Parts Switches, a BWD, and a Wells/Duralast. I have returned ALL of them.
Out of the Different Brands, All but one exhibited the same issue. When wired in, I would get a No-Start condition and Zero Volts to the IGN#2 / Bypass Circuit. One of the Standard Motor Parts switches was completely dead, only let 6V across it, and would get hot to touch fairly quickly. Interestingly enough, 3 of the 5 switches (two Standard and the Wells/Duralas) would crank the truck (still with no voltage in IGN#2 / Bypass during "Start*, ONLY by finding a sweet spot in the switch between "Run" & Start". Here is a video that shows it. I did drop the BS word in the start of the video.
https://www.amazon.com/vdp/f516000a882243e0b9ae5a1a6bc1ebc4?ref=dp_vse_rvc_0I dug around in some boxes of old wiring harness I keep and found an OEM switch, but the wiring harness was cut off a few inches from the switch. I made some temporary jumpers and BAM! Truck cranked right off.
My solution has been to solder on 10 AWG Marine Grade wiring to the OEM switch, then build out a Metri-Pak 6 way connector to have a disconnect under the dash (I Have the crimpers to do this so it makes it easier).
Now before I get trampled about the condition of my wiring harness. The wiring harness in my Ramcharger was pulled out of a 1974 W200 w/ Factory A/C that only had 8,800 miles on it (it had all the same options as my RC except for Cruise Control) and I spread out the harnesses on a table and traced out every single wire verifying them against the Factory Service Manual, AND using my electrical tester to test for continuity. I used a NOS M880 Harness for the Engine Wiring (after lengthening the Coil, Distributor, and Water Temp sensors since it was for a small block).
I'm REALLY hoping that I never have a problem in the future with the OEM Ignition switch because as of right now, I do not think that there is a replacement switch off the shelf that will work for our trucks, and as they age, replacement parts are going to be harder to come by.
