I'd start with getting the correct coil for the Pertronix unit, the factory coil may not have the proper ohm/turn ratio to support the HallCell in the Pertronix unit, personally I always run the Pertronix epoxy filled coils... if your still running the ballast resistor, your defeating the purpose of the Pertronix system...
Mike
I just ordered the Petronix coil, I'll get in a few days, the guy who helped me install the system originally did gut the ballast and soldered in a solid wire to retain the stock look. I sure hope this procedure he did is a proper solution
Whether you have the Pertronix I or II, the ballast bypass is the best route to go to eliminate the ballast and have a true 12 volts going to the HallCell, double check your wiring, the RED lead from the hallcell goes on the positive(+) terminal of the coil, the BLACK lead from the hallcell goes to the negative (-) side of the coil, the blue/dark blue lead from your firewall junction box/ignition goes to the positive (+) lead on the coil, the ballast should be gutted and a 10 gauge insulated wire installed between the two terminals in the ceramic housing if your looking to keep it "looking stock", if not you can just connect the two ballast wires together...
If you have the Pertronix I kit, be aware that the Hallcell has no protection if you leave the key in the run position for more than 20- 30 seconds, or excessive cranking for the same amount of time as you may damage/fry the Hallcell, the Pertronix II kit has internal protection to safeguard the Hallcell, if you do need to troubleshoot the electrical system for prolonged periods and plan on leaving the key in the run position, and it doesn't involve the Pertronix, disconnect the RED hallcell lead off the coil...
FYI, try and run a brass terminal dist. cap for peak performance, no solid core plug wires...
What's your initial timing? what type of advance you running and total degrees?
back of your ballast should look like this..
Mike
