running 110 fuel, I left the engine a little rich, because from my experience while the dyno is a great tool to work out a lot of things, I have never had carb jetting on a dyno be the best at the track, so I leave them a little rich and fine tune at the track. The other reason is my dyno is an older manual load control type, and I don't think I have the skill to find 5 or 10 horsepower changes, to thrash my combination any closer. If I had a dyno with electronic load control, then I would probably fine tune more. Just from the four engines I have dynoed, I can get the torque to repeat really close but the horsepower changes 5 to 10 with most pulls. The reason is with a manual controlled dyno the operator has to twist water flow control valve, listen to the sound of the engine and watch the tach, to keep the acceleration rate the same through the entire pull. That is very hard to do, at least for me. Land and Sea says 800HP is about the limit of my water brake, and my engine is getting close, so it makes it hard to stop the engine from accelerating faster in the last say 1,000rpm, which is where the highest HP numbers normally come from. What I look at is the cylinder temperatures, O2 readings, and plug color to tell me when it as good as its going to get.

At the college where I retired from we had a Mustang eddy curent engine dyno, with electroic load control, and it would repeat within a couple horsepower if you keep an eye on water and oil temperatures for each run. And I could set the ramp rate to what ever I wanted, and by changing the ramp rate you could change the horsepower and torque readings of the same engine with no changes. And the Mustang was rated to 1,500 horsepower. But the unit at school cost $60,000 I got $15,000 in mine. Like I told the girlfriend, the Dyno is something I just always wanted and it is cheaper than a decent used car. Plus I should be able to sell it and get most of my money back one day.