Kinda late to the party... glad you solved your issue though


I read thru the thread, and I'll just mention that I've been using Pertronix conversions on my personal/customers vehicles/equipment/marine applications as well for about 30 years now without a single failure/issue to date....

I've found thru the years that most failures that others experience are from mismatched components, or improper installation, or not knowing some of the peculiarities of the various Pertronix systems...

You should eliminate the ballast resistor (I understand your need for an OEM look) to have a true 12 volts to the HallCell, just gut out the stock ballast resistor, and solder in an insulated piece of copper #10 or #12 wire between the 2 terminals, connect the harness terminals on the resistor as you normally would, the system will run so much better, and you will have eliminated a weak link in the system as well... for no resistor in the system connect the black Pertronix lead to the NEGATIVE terminal on the coil, and the RED Pertronix lead to the POSITIVE terminal on the coil, your BLUE/DARK BLUE ignition lead from the vehicles bulkhead will go on the POSITIVE terminal of the coil

Your running the Pertronix I, it has no internal safeguard to protect the HallCell if the key is left in the "run" position for more than 30 seconds without the engine running, if you must troubleshoot the electrical system in the future with the key in the "run" position for long periods of time, disconnect the RED Pertronix lead from the coil...

I'd recommend using the Pertronix Flame Thrower coil/epoxy filled, but if you insist on the OEM coil, make sure it's rated for 1.5 ohms for the Pertronix I on a V8 application

Run a copper terminal cap, avoid an aluminum terminal cap, no solid core plug wires ...

Just some tips to help you avoid any issues with your new Pertronix install




Mike