I agree to all the above whereby leaning towards bolt-in items are far more proven and less costly. The coil-spring conversions (front and/or rear).. leave them for the guys who want to be different..and spend lots of unneccessary expenses and waste of time. You'ld creating another piece of lengthy artwork (pro-street), and honestly, I've never seen a ProStreet machine beat out a stock-modified car in HSAX/AX competition (any well-setup SCCA ESP classed car, as well as the recent CAM-T cars, can and does beat out the vast majority of Pro-Street cars. There are very rare exceptions to a pro-street car performing better.. and ONLY those are with professional drivers who routinely can beat most anyone in any car at any time.

TBs: I suggest 1.12 minimum, better off at 1.18... then you'll wonder why you still didn't put in 1.24 TBs (contact Firm Feel).

Rear Leafs: Composites are lighter and can be custom made with poundage and free/compressed arch. Metal leafs ok.. but heavy, Regardles, first weigh your car then determine the rear stiffness and arch... flatter always better than arched. NOTE: AVOID OFF-THE-SHELF UNITS... HAVE THEM CUSTOM-MADE TO YOUR SPECS (I RECOMMEND FLEX-A-FORM FIBERGLASS LEAFS if you want to go that route).

Shocks: Double adjustables... you pay for what you get; Vikings are the best buy (similar as QA1, but less expensive).

Good comfortable lateral supportive front seats... try many out.. for comfort and fitting your body.

Engine: BB are awesome but HEAVY!.. and they hinder cornering and breaking. Reconsider with a SB stroker with aluminum heads.

OIL PAN: Milodon road race!

Tranny: Automatics are fine (modified with a shift kit of some kind so that you can override the automatic and up/down shift at any speed any time; sticks are cool.. your choice... consider an OD tranny setup for long hwy cruising.

RACING RULES: Seriously, consider looking at whatever your local clubs have to offer. Parking lot AX (SCCA and similar) ... consider CAM-T class rules -- mostly allows a lot of mods... $$$$$ HSAX... again look at what's offered by you and their class rules. HPDE is lapping sessions... no rules other than safe car.

TIRES: Spend $$$ here... this is what connects you to the pavement.. and wide light-weight rims. Look at the TW ratings for ~240 or less, 200 most common today for club racing racing rules. 17" are limited in size (~275-40-17 max, and small diameter); so, consider 18" for best overall choices.

Don't be afraid of flairing/flushing/pulling the fenders out a little as may be needed to fit the tires/wheels.... realistically, not much is needed and can still appear stock.

UCAs: Consider the adjustable types (more expensive) instead of the non- adjustable low-cost types. Our cars desparately need more positive CASTER with a little negative camber... SPC, Hotchkis, Magnum... initial choices.

When done, balance the car at the four corners (side-to-side as close as possible), then go to the alignment shop.

Good luck!