Originally Posted By dodge turbo
Call NGK they were super helpful and I was running too cold (9) of a plug and explained why to me. Also you want to run a resistor type plug with fuel injection. He also told me a projected tip plug weather copper or irdium would work way better boosted and fuel injected then the ngk non-resitor plug I had in it.

Im 8:1 iron heads, intercooled and run 93 pump up to 15psi
I run my timing thru a msd 6al2 programable and build my own curves. I dont start pulling timing until 5psi and pull 1 degree until 10psi and then 1.75 until 15psi


I called NGK originally when I was on E85 and the plug recommendation they gave me seemed way off from what I was hearing other experienced guys tell me. Not sure why that was, but I changed plugs based on the recommendation of someone on the FITECH boards who had a lot of experience with E85/boosted SBM's and it worked much better. I need a resister plug for the EFI, also I have always heard a recessed tip is what you want for boost so you don't get spark blowout? Not sure if the BR8ES's are too cold, but hopefully it's a good starting point.

IMG_2604 by Kris A

IMG_1393 by Kris A, on Flickr
for the gentleman who requested the setup pic, this is prior to cutting out a new main bracket out of .75" aluminum.

So much mixed info about meth injection out there. I have heard some say don't rely on it as a fuel source, it only helps reduce IATs. Heard others say that the reduction in IAT's is a myth perpetuated by saturated IAT bulb style IAT sensors giving false readings. Most people seem to be saying to tune it without meth then add the meth. Only issue is, I bought the meth kit so I didn't melt my motor down while tuning.

Have heard some say it will barely affect AFR's, other say it can drop them significantly and leave the fuel injection system to max out trims trying to adjust.

I had always thought rich would be safe, but others saying i'm looking for ring trouble if I start with a rich AFR.

Just want a safe starting point, mainly because I still have some belt issues with the blower and I would love to be able to sort them out before paying for dyno pulls with a professional tuner. I just need to be able to do a hand full of runs to make sure everything is working correctly so I'm not paying for dyno time to shred belts.

Right now I am thinking i'll set a target AFR of 11.7 and spray the meth (boost juice, basically a 50/50 meth water blend) as soon as boost kicks in. start timing at 22 degrees to be safe






More photos of the build here
https://www.flickr.com/photos/145918422@N04/with/33639843983/

I built the blower bracket around an SD concept crank pulley, built an alternator bracket to mount a GM 140 amp on the driver's side. Had problems with the blower throwing belts. Built a brace to the rear of the blower bracket and recut it out of 3/4 T6061. Seemed to help, but belts would still jump ribs and split in half every few runs. Alignment looks dead on. Thinking at this point it's either that Dayno tensioner isn't up to task and is bouncing too much or I am getting deflection on the idler pulley which is basically just a really long bolt and spacer (I have a fix I am going to weld up today) or the belt throwing may have been from the fitech bogging and hesitating bad with E85 as the sudden change in rpm tends to throw belts. But all that is whole other topic lol.

Last edited by 1mean340; 05/18/18 02:00 PM.