I used to run these a LONG time ago, back around 74 when I had the 340 in my '70 RR body, and later, when I had a SB in my old Landcruiser
They are very easy to adapt. So easy, that I don't remember the details, seems to me I just make a new spacer and played with the front spacing as well, I may have heated and bent the tension link, I don't remember.
In my opinion, you guys put way way WWAAAYYYY too much into this notion of "no charge at idle." Just how much do you idle at 800 RPM? Hell there were THOUSANDS (millions) of these old alternators that managed (somehow) to work just fine back then.
When my '70 (440sixpack) was in "its prime" I at some times had a considerable amount of amateur radio gear in the trunk, and part of it was VACUUM TUBE gear (ex-police, taxi, etc)
I ran 4537 landing lights in that car for a long time with no issues-- 100w per lamp
When you hook up the older GM, do NOT depend on this "self excitation" nonsense, which they were never designed to do. I've forgotten, but you can tie one reg. term to the battery term, but it SHOULD have a separate "sense" lead for more accurate regulation, and the other should go through an isolation diode (replaces the idiot circuit) to a keyed (ign on) spot.
Like this:
http://www.softcom.net/users/acnss/image/DelcoSI2wiring.jpgonly we didn't use a resistor, just a diode in the no1 lead, and once again, more accurate to run no2 directly--separate wire--clear to the battery
This diagram
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d8015a3ab.gifshows a 10 ohm resistor in the excitation lead
LAST I modified at least one of them to bring out the brushes --may have been the early frame external reg.---and hooked it up to a '70--later Mopar regulator
