Originally Posted By dogdays
1. I didn't really science timing out. I set total timing at IIRC 35 degrees at 3000 rpm, I'm sure of the rpm. The curve is whatever was in the Direct Connection distributor. I let the initial fall where it went to, I'm sure someone could scare up the curve. Initial was probably more than the stock setting.

2. The alternator...Original alternator has one wire from the regulator to the field connector, the other end of the field winding is to ground. In the newer alternator, both ends of the field are connected to the regulator. One of those two wires is a ground. That's why the regulator has to be grounded for the second type. You can run the newer distributor with the older style regulator by simply grounding one of the field leads to the alternator case. It takes a spade connector and a couple inches of wire. Then hook the single wire up to the other field connection.
Only reason to switch to two wire field is to use a bigger alternator.

3. Good on you for the disk brakes. Remember the studs are swaged to hold hub and brake drum together. The swages have to be removed somehow.

4. The intake, yes I feel your pain. You should try to buy a stock cast iron single 4-barrel intake! Even higher.

R.


think i found a stock cast iron intake for $100. just have to find time to meet up and pick it up. have a few holley 600's laying around i'll throw on it.

i'll have to get a re-curve kit for the HEI dist. i'll put it at 35/36* total and then play around and find out where it likes initial.

i'll have to look up on how to remove the swaged studs.

thanks for all the info...

Last edited by abodyjoe; 02/19/16 04:45 PM.

It's better to keep your mouth shut and give the impression that you're stupid than to open it and remove all doubt.

www.MoparMisfits.com