I put my baseplates in a vise (wrapped in a shop rag), put a propane torch to the screw thread area & just dug at the brass screw with a little screwdriver and a pocket knife to "cut" a slot into it and the screws turned out easy once heated. It's a crude method, but it worked for me. Then all you need is replacement idle screws from Holley.
FYI- I have the adjuster tool/hex head idle screws and I don't see it as that big of an advantage since you still need a Promax base plate to get to the back carburetor. The screws are much less likely to strip out again though.
70 Roadrunner convt. street car
440+6, NOS, 4-spd, SS springs
'96 Mustang GT convt. street car
'04 4.6 SOHC, NOS, auto, lowered
"Officer, that button is for short on-ramps"
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