Most of the factory service manuals from the 40s & 50s make the assumption the mechanic is capable of pulling a motor out of the car without instructions. Times were much more simple then, and the process had not changed much. It is not like cars of today where specific processes need to be followed or you can't get it out.
Unfortunately, if you have only pulled motors out of new stuff, the way they did things back then are a bit strange.

My son's 57 Dodge wagon had a V8 with an auto. Because someone had already removed the front inner fenders before we got the car, we are not sure what was done, but we are in the process of re-installing those inner fenders, and there are a lot of bolts. The inner fenders are bolted to the fenders, to the radiator support, the firewall and have a coupler brackets attached to the frame!

We did remove the front bumper (Dodge is different then a Plymouth, at least, in appearance) and there were 8 bolts (on each side) attaching the bumper to the frame. At least 4 of those bolts (on each side) are only accessible with end wrenches and the proper combination of sockets & extensions. Fortunately, our car is a CA edition and the bolts actually un-wrenched. We have a MO parts car here, I suspect a guy would have to cut those bolts off, and that would not be fun (and this is at a welding shop). I can't imagine what a northern IL car would look like! Stuff would probably need to be cut to make clearance to cut the bolts. If you need to remove that front bumper, start loading the bolts with penetrating oil now. Once the bumper is removed, there are 2 bolts that hold the fender to the top of the firewall, two bolts at the bottom of the fenders to the cowl, and one large bolt in the center and the front sheet metal lifts off.

The V8 car has some strange motor mounts. We ended up unbolting them from the motor and from the frame, as we lifted the motor, we took them out of the way.
There are several bolts (6 per side, I think) that hold the transmission crossmember onto the frame. and 3 (I believe) that attach the transmission mount to the crossmember.

There are 2 wires to the starter (remove the starter because it will be in the way to pull the motor/trans).

The throttle linkage is mechanical and you will want to pull the rod between the carb (or the manifold pivot bracket) & the pivot bracket on the firewall off.

The heater core (on the Dodge anyway) extends 6" or more out into the engine compartment above the back of the motor. It is attached with several screws (10 or 12) around the outside edge, plus the heater hoses, plus the blower vent tube. That heater core removal will free up a lot of space above the motor.

There is a ground wire attached to the back of the motor that attaches to the firewall and wires for the coil & generator that need to be removed. The oil pressure is mechanical and has a tube attaching it to the gauge, and the temp gauge is also mechanical and has a fitting that needs to be disconnected. Of course you will want to remove the rad & rad hoses. There is a heater hose from the back of the motor to a heat control valve on the firewall that will need to be disconnected. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the manifold and if there is a bracket on the side near the trans, it will need to be disconnected too. Don't forget to remove the driveshaft, transmission linkage, e brake linkage, and speedometer connection. I've probably missed something.

Since the front sheet metal was pulled off our car, we only had to lift the motor a few inches, and we did not have to remove the trans crossmember.

You will need to remove the crossmember,(a floor jack will be helpful) and your motor & trans will be standing almost straight up and down as it comes up to come out. You will have to tilt the motor enough for the bottom belt pulley to clear the radiator support while the trans will still be in the trans tunnel, then pull the motor/trans forward and raise until the trans clears the tunnel. Then everything needs to move forward and be lifted up until the motor/trans clear the radiator support and clears the front end of the car. Slow movement, watchful eyes looking for things hanging up, and a pry bar are useful things to have then. Be careful not you use your hands to "protect" hard car parts, those parts are tougher then your hands, and easier to replace. Once clear, you may be able to turn the motor/trans sideways to clear the car in a little shorter distance. There is also the possibility, that instead of moving the motor & trans while its hanging on the engine hoist, the car may be carefully (and slowly) pulled rearward.

I am sure I missed something in the process, but this should be close. Personal safety needs to be a high priority. Even though I pulled hundreds of motors, impulse still wants me to put a personal body part between two metal objects to protect something. You need to keep yourself aware of where your putting your hands & arms, as well as where helpers may be putting their hands and arms. In my shop the rules are: If it starts to go bad, get out of the way and watch it crash! We can fix whatever metal stuff gets damaged.
Good luck,
Gene