Actually with your weight in barbells on the dr seat and steering whell halfway between lock to lock you can (1) set the ride height (tbars) to where the front tires look good (to you) in the wheelwells (2) turn all (4) cams till you get max caster (3) bring rear cam on each side out till a 2 ft carpenters level vertical on the sidewall(s) shows plumb (zero camber) then (4) adj sleeves till toe in is straight ahead (tires pointed straight ahead by measureing distance between sidewalls at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock & want those distances to be equal). This is plenty accurate & will save you a towing charge. EDIT forgot if you do camber or toe in first but yes go to the handling site. I'd drive it for 10 miles or so to let the tbars etc settle & I'll call the shop & ask if they do not compensate for drivers weight & if they do if they can undo that calibration & just go by the settings then have him pull the weights from the pass seat back over to the dr seat before he exits after he drives up on the rack. A bit picky but my 65 dart just floated down the road after they did it the way I wanted it: zero camber/max positive caster & first they left the ride height where I put it but they did even it up a skosh as it changed a hair in the 10 mile trip. half tank of gas/tires aired up where I wanted em