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DO YOU HAVE SOME EXTRA DEVICE/ACCESORy hooked up to the batt side ? the load reading could be feeding that and not really a charging reading... which when revving up, batt also will demand the power lost when sourcing the acc, then the big charging reading



Haha, I know so many people wire things incorrectly. The only non-stock load I have is electric fans and they (their relays) are powered from the alternator stud so when they run, the ammeter shows the proper readings. Everything else is powered from the factory locations.

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Check the ground path(s) also on low (20 volt) scale. alt case to batt neg post/reg case to batt neg post (batt neg post is your reference point). As said break out your meter/check ALL terminals/connections. way less likely would be a batt cell going bad & subbing in another battery would ans that Q quickly. In almost all cases when an electronic reg goes bad it either goes open or full fields



I am 99.9% sure all my grounds are as good as it gets. I have ground jumpers run from the VR to the firewall tied to the ground strap that goes to the engine block. I would think if grounding were bad, the system would be charging at more than 14.6V.

The battery is a deep-cycle Interstate and is at least 5 years old. It appeared in the engine bay sometime during when my Charger was in body shop hell. I had it tested 2 years ago and it was fine they said (Advance Auto FWIW). Granted this car doesn't get driven more than 1-2x a week but maybe it is time for a new battery.

I'm glad to see I'm not the only one who has seen this. I am electrically proficient (I'd like to think) so I wanted to see if this was normal as I have eliminated the "easy" stuff already.