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Interesting discussion...especially in regards to grounding the heads individually. Never heard any of this before




I`ve checked the non-grounded head and it completes current and is fine reading voltage.............interesting. I also probably use too much ante-seize so time to clean out the plug holes I guess.




I would say NO dont use it! Reason is it will NOT be grounded as well as it could be. How many of you have ever checked the fluid in the radiator to see how many volts are there? The fact of the matter is that most cars seem fine but the electronics Dont work as they should. Heck yes you should ground your heads and 4130 chassis is the worst but mild steel chassis car still needs alot more than you want to believe to be properly grounded.If your having problems misses,running the same time-get a volt meter out and check the DC/AC in each circuit on your ride. This is what I have learned

I have actually been battling this problem for over a month now. Car ran fine below about 4K. Get above that and start running some boost and it starts missing. Seemed like an ignition problem, but after going through the entire ignition system ( multiple times ) I moved on to the fuel system and engine mechanicals. Verified the alternator was good. Volt gauge always ran around 14 volts. Ran a separate volt gauge directly off the distributor feed wire to make sure I was getting 14 vlts to it. When I would pull the plugs, they would always look good. Didn't even look at how much anti-seize was on the plug threads / washers. I was running out of ideas. Decided to put in a fresh set of plugs. Noticed there was a lot of anti-seize in the plug gasket area in the heads, so I wiped that area down and just used a drop of oil on the new plug threads. Engine missing problem gone! Blasts right up to 6500 and 15 lbs of boost without a glitch. I now have a spare ignition module, cap, rotor, alternator, valve springs, and a very clean fuel system.

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