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Felix,

Congratulations on your project. For your supercharged 440 I would suggest this as a 'general' outline for a very streetable 600 hp supercharged 440.

A forged (approx 1971 or earlier) 440 crankshaft
Aftermarket forged H or I beam connecting rods
Forged 'D' dish pistons which allow for both quench and between 8.5 and 8.8:1 static compression ratio. Pistons are specifically available for supercharged engines and typically feature the ring pack being set slightly lower from the combustion surface of the piston, this is recommended but not required. Follow the piston mfg recommendation for ring type, gap and finish hone on the cylinder bores.
A well-machined block (sonic checked, square decked, line honed with ARP main studs, finished honing with 'deck' plates with enlarged oil passages as outlined in the mopar performance Engine manual).
An aluminum cylinder head such as the Edelbrock performer RPM (closed chamber approx 84cc as advertised) with mild porting and combustion chamber polishing would be helpful. Supercharged engines for long term durability tend to benefit from a wider valve seat margin surface than you might want on a fully ported set of heads, however some judicious contouring of the bowl area and guide contouring is still helpful).
Good cooling is essential on a supercharged engine, a supplemental oil cooler and larger transmission coolers are good investments for dissipating as much heat as is practical.
For a cam with about 8-10psi of boost I would run a hydraulic flat tappet with approximately 242 degrees @.050 and .540 lift on the intake and approx 250 degrees @ .050 on the exhaust on 112 lobe seperation angle and installed +4 at 108 intake centerline. This will give you a very broad powerband and will idle deceptively smooth at 800-850rpm.
I would run a custom calibrated single 4 barrel carb like a pro-systems 950hp 4150 series carb with a 16" x 4" high air cleaner. Run a large capacity (min 110gph and 140 hog would be better) electric fuel pump.
A ported high volume oil pump with a minimum 7 quart wet sump system will be fine, the milodon low profile is best for ground clearance (since the 6-71 adds a lot of weight to the front of the car)
For a distributor, I've had very good success running a custom calibrated unit with approx 14-16 degrees of initial advance and a comparatively slow mechanical curve of 20 degrees all in by 3000 rpm, unlike a normally aspirated car you don't want a quick full advance for part throttle roll-on (normal driving) power.
Headers should be 2" primaries with 3 1/2" collectors going to a low restriction dual 3" system.
A "tight" 10" Turbo-action (nominal stall approx 3000, they sell "loose-medium and tight" stalls) would work very well with 3.55 gears, behind the blown 440 it would Footbraked stall approx 3800 rpm but would still fell very good at highway cruising speeds and not run hot. A blower will increase the stall and flash of any converter compared to a normally aspirated motor, so a big mistake people make is to go too loose and they simply can't put the power to the ground.

That's IMO a solid base to consider for a very streetable 6-71 blown 440,(I've built several)... hope it helps!

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