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Well, JRR, yer right, save money on that crank and you'll spend it on rods or pistons. Bummer!

Regarding block and crank relative strengths, it seems to me that the stock blocks are failing before the cranks get into trouble. So it seems counterproductive to weaken a block that's already the weak link, in order to protect a crank that, even turned down, is the stronger link.

R.

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I agree with this concept. The block obviously gets weaker when you bore the mainline, as the bearing saddle gets closer to the thinner parts of the main webbing. You'd have to show me how a crank gets weaker by cutting the main journals down, though. I could be wrong, but typically a smaller diameter of the same material is going to be stronger than a larger diameter.

In any case, I would suggest that the most cost effective way to build a stout rotating assembly is going to be to find a good forged RB crank and make the modifications there. Add a good set of newer H-beam rods with ARP capscrews (I'm not a fan of using 40 year old stock rods in a performance build), and a set of forged slugs. Makes for a pretty stout rotating assembly at a very reasonable pricetag.

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