Blown 71, where did you T into the stock field and amp gauge wires? I need to take out the stock regulator and wiring.

I didn`t "T" into anything, I didn`t want to hack up my OE harness because it was new when I redid the car and I have a strict rule on this car of doing no modifications that are not easily reversible (basicly bolt on`s) So what I did was put a resistor in the wire (heatshrink it) right at the alternator plug and a spade on the end (about 6 inches in length total) then it plugs into my original field supply wire (blue) which is a 12 volt switched source. The Green field return wire from the original alternator to the original regulator is not used so it`s just tied back.
If your not using any of your original wiring then the "L" terminal with the resistor or bulb from the alternator just needs to be hooked to a switched 12 volt (ign) source.

Also, hooking the ammeter wire right to the charge post won't fry the wires or the ammeter inside?? I don't think I want 100a going through my dashboard!

NO you don`t...thats why I said it is a MUST to run a wire from the output to the battery, with a proper sized fuse or fuselink at the battery.
The reason I have my original wire to the amp guage also hooked to the output of the alternator (per the diag I posted above) is as I said above...I don`t want to hack up my OE harness, It also in a roundabout way is a amp guage bypass and also splits the draw from the inside of the car over 2 terminals in the bulkhead connector VS just one. I have all my high current stuff (injector feed, pumps, inverter, etc) connected right to the battery as should anybody with any high current accessory. Even when new these older cars that we all deal with were never designed to accommodate alot of the high current stuff that we deal with today. And while there might be that one person that says they got by with something....Its better to be safe than burn down you pride and joy.


Rick