Quote:

i have heard a few members mention andy f's bb book.is that the book to have?i have an older one by chuck senatore and was wondering if it's good also.TIA


They are both good books. Really, this site is a great resource. Andy F often provides his input.

With any cam, the lobe profiles and required spring pressures are important when looking at durability.
A race cam will have very fast ramps and stiff valve springs and they are much harder on the valvetrain than a cam designed for a street car (and more expensive.)
My old engine had a solid roller street cam, that never gave me any problem at all. Valve lash never changed, and the bronze drive gear looked great after 10,000 miles. The solid roller race cam I'm using in the 500" stroker is hard on the valve train (and cylinder heads...), for added durability with that cam I am running $500/set valve springs, with Ti retainers (about $300), hardened 10-degree locks, lash caps, and spring cups (actually locates the inner spring.) so I probably have almost $1,000 in just the valve spring setup, not to mention $1,000 rocker arms, and $300 pushrods.
The Hydraulic roller in the 505" street car is milider, and easier on parts. The valve springs were only $150 /set, used regular Comp 10-degree steel retainers and locks, and 5/16" x 0.083" wall pushrods (still $200+/set.) The rockers are super cheap CAT 1.7:1 ratio stainless steel units (which is an experiment and gamble.) So far I only have about 100 miles on the engine, but no problems.