""Thats what it had, same results. After I leaned out the transfer circuit it needed more fuel at idle.""

You will need to readjust the idle mixture screws once you change the IFR's. Readjust the IMS's so that you have the strongest vacuum in D (foot on brake or emergency brake applied) or if a manual tranny, in N.
Once you have the idle circuit back on track after swapping IFR's, then drive the car and see if you need to change the idle bleeds to compensate. If you swap the idle bleeds, make sure to readjust the IMS's again.

--------------------------------------------

""I can get it lean at cruise 14.5 AFR by leaning out the idle and transfer feed passage,but then it won`t idle at 16.7 AFR.""

This is proof that the IFR swap is what you need to get you into the 14's. Once your IMS's are readjusted, then you idle and your transition circuit should be close enough for another test drive. If your A/F reading is close, then swap out your IAB's or raise/lower your primary float to tweak in the A/F number.

Note: If you swap the IFR's, the IAB's, or change the float level, you will need to readjust your metering screws for best vacuum again.


Once you have your under 2500rpm cruise A/F sorted out, then you can work on your steady cruise A/F number above 2500rpm's which should be your main jets. You don't have to cruise at 60, or 70mph to do this. Just drive the car in 2nd and take notes on what your A/F number is at 2500rpms, 3000rpms, 3500rpms, and 4000rpms. Then if your A/F number is off, then make a primary jet swap and then retest again at the same rpms already noted. Then once you have that A/F number and are happy with it, then work on your WOT a/f number.

Have fun!!