You can order it with or without AN fittings. You can also order it with a 1/2" to 1/4" reducer fitting for the return line. Cost will be $169 plus $20 for AN fittings. The reducer fitting is $6.

We have an A-body gas tank with a hole cut in the side so we can see the position of the float. We've tried to place the float very close to the bottom of the tank when the arm is at the bottom of it's travel and very close to the top when the arm is at the top of it's travel.

On our other sending units, we have found that it is common for the gauge to read a little higher or lower than with the stock sending unit (maybe 1/8 tank different) but if you feel it is too far off, you can return it and we will rework the arm. Bending the arm so the float is lower makes the gauge read higher. Bending the arm so the float is higher, makes the gauge read lower.

Everyone has a different opinion on how the gauge should read. I run our sending unit in two of my cars. I have them adjusted so the car runs out of gas when the needle on the gauge is right on the "E" mark. I prefer that over having the car run out of gas at some unknown point somewhere below "E". However, most people are accustomed to the idea of having a few gallons left in the tank when you get to "E" so that's how we try to set them up.

BTW, most cars sold in Europe have gauges that read "E" when you are actually out of gas but in the USA, gas gauges traditionally are set up so you still have a few gallons in the tank when the gauge reads "E". I wonder why?