So I am in the process of replacing some the front end suspension on my 68 Charger. I use the car strictly for driving around town and on occasional a pass at the 1/4 mile. I just replaced the upper control arm bushing, the upper and lower ball joints, the idler arm, the sway bar stabilizers and bushings. The part numbers i used are k408, k6629, k781, k783, k772.
After I replaced all of the parts and took the car to the shop to have it aligned the front tires have been squealing like crazy. I took it back in today and had them redo the alignment but the tires are steal squealing. They don't seem to squeal as much but its still noticeable. The shop thinks there is a problem with the toe adjustment. They currently have the toe set at zero. They have been able to adjust the camber properly but they haven't been able to adjust the caster to normal specs. Currently the pass side has -5.6 degrees caster and the driver side has -0.2 degrees. The camber is set at 0.1 degrees on both tires.
While I was under the car looking around I noticed the driver side torsion bar nut isn't even with the pass side torsion bar nut. It looks as though the nut was tightened a lot more on the pass side. On the drivers side the washer behind the nut is loose. I can freely move it around. The height of the car on the driver side is about an inch more than the pass side. If I understand the factory manual correctly if I tighten that nut on the driver side torsion bar it will raise that side of the car even more.

So my questions are:
What would cause the tires to squeal while driving?
Does it sound like the torsion bar is adjusted correctly?

This is the passenger side torsion bar end.

This is the driver side

The only componets you havent changed yet, is the inner lower control arm bushings. They are in the lower control arm on the other side of those torsion bar bolts as you call them.

Chances are both the bushings themselves are shot. Also that one bolt thats tightend up alot more then the other, indicates that the lower control arm pin is pulling through the K frame. Its a common problem. The K fame cracks and weakens at the pin area, both front and back.

You will need to remove your torsion bars and both lower control arms to inspect those items before you proceed with anymore alignment adjusments.

Most any alignment shop nowadays isnt going to be aware of these past problems with the old 60,s K Frames.

CThanks for the reply. So if the k frame is cracked can it be rewealed safely.

if the nut that hold the lower control arm are loose the alignment spc. will not stay in spc.
but if the ride hieght was not ajusted that the frist thing to set before doing and alignment.
an look close at the k frame at the point the control arm fit. I have see the weld around the sleve break an yes I hav reweld them

If you have neg 5 degrees caster that car will never drive right.Id adjust the T bars and as said check the lower bushings.Sounds like you need Moog off set upper bushings.My 65 had a lot of neg caster.I pulled the polys and went Moog offsets.Now Im at about .5 neg caster and my camber is at about 0.Been a few years since I did the alingment.I did it myself that why I know its right.You cant use the factory spec unless you are running Bias tires.Rocky

Yes, the K Frame can be rewelded as others have stated. Also as the Rock has stated the caster being so far off from one side to another is not a good thing.

But thats another indicater of bad lower control arm bushings or LC pin mount K Frame issues.

Just the age of the car alone suggests the LC bushings if Never changed are going to be shot.

The fact that the Passenger side LC pin nut is tightend a bunch further then the driver side. Indicates a cracked k frame in that pin area. "Common" The Negative Caster on the Passenger side confirms it IMO.

Since the LC Pin nut is tightened further, on that side, that would Pull the lower inner control arm further forward at that point. The outside strut rod would remain firm on the LC arm causing a - castor scenario as described.

Im looking at the pics and thought I didnt see a T bar or the T bar bolt.My eyes are bad an I thought I was missing something.Age really sometimes wont make a differenc in the bushings.My 65 when I pulled them to install new were just like new after 40 years.I almost didnt change them.I agree sounds like the lowers are bad and maybe some frame cracking.Rocky