First off. I left the car outside and it rained some water I think made it's way in the new motor. The oil looks milky. But I changed the oil and same thing milky oil again... How many times do I have to change the oil before all the water comes out?

1 last thing. I am breaking in a new cam now too so I'm running 10-30w with lucas zinc additive. Also there's the stuff on the cam too for break in that's gotten rinsed off. WIth all this extra stuff in the oil could it make it look milky and I'm just gonna change the oil agin for no reason?

thanks

milky oil comes from either water in the oil and or heavy condensation. Ch oil will get it out then operating temps will boil out any residual assuming it's just condensation & not a leak. To pin this down a bit might have a rad shop pump 15 lbs into it & see if it holds pressure. If it continues to leak since this is a new build it could b head gasket or front intake ports (assuming SB from your sig) but k.i.s.s. hopefully just condensation from not getting fully warmed up along w temp changes causing condensation. Cam would already b broken in after the 25 min breakin procedure and here's a good 5 minute read on ring breakin "break in secrets" at www.mototuneusa.com.

Might take a few changes. Is the car able to be driven or not? Sometimes the water/condensation takes a while to evaporate. What doesn't evaporate might come out with oil changes. If not, you might have water getting into your system through a head gasket. My 340 had a "little" white stuff on the dip stick and oil cap. Had some issues with a head gasket early on. Got it going, ran it, changed the oil 3 times and its been clear since.

It is very important to run these engines up to temp always. If you just run it for a minute or two often, you will get this. If you don't have a bad head gasket I would imagine that changing the oil then running it to temp should eliminate most of it.

With your engine running remove the radiator cap.If you see bubbles then you have a blown head gasket or a cracked head.

dare I even ask HOW you got water in the crankcase ? was the car sitting out in a rain storm with the hood off , and the intake and/or valve covers off ?

Good point about how it got in there, also how long?
I once bought a corvette in the winter. Had a fresh rebuild but stored outside with no hood. Checked the oil and it looked good. Got it home inside my Garage and found the crankcase had 5 qts of oil plus another 5 qts of water. Seems the water will freeze and when you pull the Dipstick all you see is clean oil, didn't notice until it thawed out. Drop the pan and check it. Mine was full of rust. I got away with rehoning that one and new bearings and new cam but it would Have been worse of I tried to crank it or worse start it.
Good luck
Scott

ok guys I worked on it today. It only had a little bit of water in it. This is the third time I changed the oil and now it's good. I broke in the cam correctly and set it at idle today. I had to check the valves a bunch but it's pretty much all good now.

I did have another question for you guys while we're at it... When my last engine stopped working it's because it was detonating... I'm wondering what jet sizes you recomend? And where I should set the timing...

this is what it is

360 $2,000 in machine shop work
ported heads 2.02in 1,60ex
.522" custom cam 107 lobe centers.... solid
kb107's so it should be about 10.5-1 compression
victor jr. intake some plenum work and port matched
holley 750 double pumper
msd distributer and digital 6
8 3/4 rear end minitubbed 3.91 gears 275 drag radials

I think I have it at 35* now not too sure on the jet sizes gonna check that tomorrow

thanks

750 I'd start with the 6.5 power valve maybe a 5.5. jets 72 front and 80 rear. since you are close to sea level maybe start out with 74 and 82 if it's a smiggen rich that will not hurt anything. a little rich is better than a little lean.