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2002 Special "Clunk" up front #944986
03/06/11 11:20 PM
03/06/11 11:20 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,078
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Dartman75 Offline OP
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Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Once the cold hit in December, my 2002 300M special started making clunky rattling feelings over the rough snow packed residential roads. It's audible to a lesser extent and hard to tell where it comes from, but also can feel it in the floor of the car through the dead pedal and general driver footwell area. I can induce this in the parking garage by quickly turning back and forth. But that is about the only predictability I have in the cause as some bumps do tiand some don't. Some uneven bumps cause it and others don't. When the car is warm (fresh from heated garage, or warmer days) it s certainly less prevalent or vanishes for all but the bumpiest roads. I did some digging on the LH forums and came up with man options that it could be:
strut bushings
ball joints
Control Arm bushings
Sway bar bushings
Sway bar end links

Is there a rasonable way to reduce that to the culprit. Things to poke, prod or pry to find out what is what?

Thanks in advance.
Greg

Re: 2002 Special "Clunk" up front [Re: Dartman75] #944987
03/06/11 11:30 PM
03/06/11 11:30 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
DAYCLONA Offline
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I'm doing a 2006 300C for pretty much the same symptoms,...inner and outer tie rods

Re: 2002 Special "Clunk" up front [Re: Dartman75] #944988
03/07/11 12:22 AM
03/07/11 12:22 AM
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Ohio
Todd Offline
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I vote for sway bar links.

Re: 2002 Special "Clunk" up front [Re: Todd] #944989
03/07/11 01:46 AM
03/07/11 01:46 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 515
Bolingbrook, IL
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HemiRunner Offline
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Bolingbrook, IL
Unfortunately newer chrysler products are bad for outer tie rod failure, but also have had problems with the sway bar end links & sway bar frame mount bushings. To check the tie rod ends, easier with two people, jack the car up & shake the wheel side to side & have one person look at the outer tie rod for movement. You can also put your hand on the joint to feel for movement. Inner tie rod, put your hand on the inner portion of the boot & feel for movement. Outer sway bar end links, slide under the car with the weight on the wheels & see if you can move the sway bar end up & down to see if there is play in the joint. Sway bar frame mount bushings, look for shiny area on the bar around the mount bushing. That tells you it is moving around too much in the bushing. These are just some of the things to check.


Blown & Injected, need I say more? 71 Road Runner 04 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 CTD
Re: 2002 Special "Clunk" up front [Re: HemiRunner] #944990
03/07/11 02:16 AM
03/07/11 02:16 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,078
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Dartman75 Offline OP
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Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
I was certainly not thinking tie rods. Steering is still very positive with no "loose" feeling and the clunk never comes through the steering wheel in any way. Thanks for the tips on how to check things. If I recall my last look under the car, the swaybar body mounts are burried under all the front bumper cover stuff. Hopefully my memory is failing me.

Greg

Re: 2002 Special "Clunk" up front [Re: Dartman75] #944991
03/07/11 05:21 PM
03/07/11 05:21 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,078
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Dartman75 Offline OP
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I don't think it's tie rods. At a stand still, steering rapidly back and forth doesn't induce the clunk. The car must be moving enough that the body rolls side to side compressing one spring and off on the other side. Just doing this as a slow roll or stand still doesn't cause the clunk. And it quite positive not loose at all. I'll make the effort to get under it tonight and check things out as best I can on a frozen garage floor.

Greg

Re: 2002 Special "Clunk" up front [Re: Dartman75] #944992
03/07/11 05:28 PM
03/07/11 05:28 PM
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 473
MI
Blown69 Offline
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MI
Quote:

Once the cold hit in December, my 2002 300M special started making clunky rattling feelings over the rough snow packed residential roads. It's audible to a lesser extent and hard to tell where it comes from, but also can feel it in the floor of the car through the dead pedal and general driver footwell area. I can induce this in the parking garage by quickly turning back and forth. But that is about the only predictability I have in the cause as some bumps do tiand some don't. Some uneven bumps cause it and others don't. When the car is warm (fresh from heated garage, or warmer days) it s certainly less prevalent or vanishes for all but the bumpiest roads. I did some digging on the LH forums and came up with man options that it could be:
strut bushings
ball joints
Control Arm bushings
Sway bar bushings
Sway bar end links

Is there a rasonable way to reduce that to the culprit. Things to poke, prod or pry to find out what is what?

Thanks in advance.
Greg


We replaced many sway bar links over the years for that concern

Re: 2002 Special "Clunk" up front [Re: Blown69] #944993
03/07/11 05:50 PM
03/07/11 05:50 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,078
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Dartman75 Offline OP
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Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
I have wondered about the end links, but find it hard to imagine anything in there could smack anything hard enough to put an noticable clunk/thump through the floor pan. I can undo the ends and see if that really is the problem. Dependant on the working room under that car. Might be easier to pop the wheels off?

Re: 2002 Special "Clunk" up front [Re: Dartman75] #944994
03/08/11 02:18 AM
03/08/11 02:18 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,078
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Dartman75 Offline OP
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I pulled the drive side end link out, and drove it. Dead quiet, no clunk or thunk. The end links had no play in them, were not seize and seems to be in good shape, but I replaced them anyway. I didn't know the sway bar diameter (1" or 1-1/16") or i'd have grabbed those despite no signs of movement in the mounts or bar. After replacing the endlinks I test drove and it still clunks again so I have to assume it's either the sway bar frame bushings or the sway bar is allowing something else to flaot around when I steer back and forth to induce sway. It seems like that thunk or clunk is too solid (hard surface impact) for it to be sway bar bushings though. Is there anything else that can unload and load as the sway bars oppose the motion of the shocks and body?

What is the swaybar diameter on the 2002 300M Special?

Re: 2002 Special "Clunk" up front [Re: Dartman75] #944995
03/08/11 09:47 AM
03/08/11 09:47 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 515
Bolingbrook, IL
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HemiRunner Offline
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Bolingbrook, IL
Trying to find clunks & squeaks can be a mechanics nightmare as sound can travel through suspension & frame & make you think it ic coming from someplace it's not. As mentioned already, the sway bar & tie rods are the usual culprits, but on the newer cars there are many other places it can come from. Being a mechanic it is a little easier to check everything cause you have it on a lift & see a lot better. Other areas that can make noise is ball joints, lower control arm bushings, upper strut mounts, steering rack mounts.....had that one time, steered fine, wheel was straight, but one of the bolts that hold the rack down was loose & would make a thunk when the rack shifted, so there can be quite a bit to look at.


Blown & Injected, need I say more? 71 Road Runner 04 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 CTD
Re: 2002 Special "Clunk" up front [Re: Dartman75] #944996
03/08/11 10:51 AM
03/08/11 10:51 AM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,377
Ohio
Todd Offline
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Ohio
To easily check sway bar bushing and links have someone rock the vehicle side to side (with the vehicle on the ground) by pushing on the top side of roof. Then put your hand on the sway bar link ends though the fender well. If the link ends feel fine but still feel the bar bumping up and down the bushings are bad.

Re: 2002 Special "Clunk" up front [Re: Todd] #944997
03/08/11 01:25 PM
03/08/11 01:25 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,078
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Dartman75 Offline OP
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I'm going to just replace the swaybar bushings since they are cheap and look easy to get at. If it's still clunking after that I'll be a bit confounded.

I tested in the parking garage this morning. Turning the car hard doesn't cause the clunk until the body settles back to level. So loading the bars up must stretch out the bushing and the act of falling back into place is likely where the clunk comes from. It does it in either turn direction so must be both sides behaving the same.

Greg

Re: 2002 Special "Clunk" up front [Re: Dartman75] #944998
03/08/11 11:30 PM
03/08/11 11:30 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,078
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Dartman75 Offline OP
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Sway bar bushings replace, clunk resolved.
Thanks for the help!

Greg

Re: 2002 Special "Clunk" up front [Re: Dartman75] #944999
03/09/11 02:02 PM
03/09/11 02:02 PM
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 149
Rancho Cucamonga,Ca
3
392charger Offline
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Rancho Cucamonga,Ca
My 2000 300M does the same thing so I'm going to check out the bushings this weekend. Thanks for the heads up

Re: 2002 Special "Clunk" up front [Re: 392charger] #945000
03/09/11 02:30 PM
03/09/11 02:30 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,078
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Dartman75 Offline OP
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I had my son rock the car and I watched the bushings and you could see noticable play (1/16" or more). Since they are cheap to replace and easy to get to and replace. My special has the 1-1/16" bar. The 1" bar must be for non-specials. Measure to be safe though. Feels nice to resolve silly things like that with such a great car.

Re: 2002 Special "Clunk" up front [Re: Dartman75] #945001
03/21/11 01:14 PM
03/21/11 01:14 PM
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 149
Rancho Cucamonga,Ca
3
392charger Offline
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Rancho Cucamonga,Ca
I finally got around to checking the clunking noise in my front end yesterday (2000 300M), and it looks to be the inner tie rod? Not sure what it's called. It's the bar that connects the outer tie rod to the rack. Cant see it very well, just looking thru the wheel well with a flash light while my son jiggled the steering wheel back and forth. Appears to be very spoppy where the bolts connect the bar to the rack. Almost like the bolts are loose but I assume there is a bushing or something there? Both sides of the car are loose btw. I'm not doing a good job on the description I know, but can somebody offer some advice or maybe a link to an exploded view of that set up? Thanks

Re: 2002 Special "Clunk" up front [Re: 392charger] #945002
03/21/11 01:42 PM
03/21/11 01:42 PM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,377
Ohio
Todd Offline
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Ohio
Go get the bushings from Napa or where ever you get aftermarket parts from. Remove the locking tabs by bending them out of the way and loosen both sides preferibly with the wheels off the ground and the outer tie rods off at the strut. Then remove one attaching bolt and be sure not to drop the washer thats behind the bushing and remove from vehicle. The old ones bushings should fall right out if they are loose. The new ones just push together. Then assemble but leave loose so you can do the other side.

Re: 2002 Special "Clunk" up front [Re: Todd] #945003
03/21/11 04:10 PM
03/21/11 04:10 PM
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 149
Rancho Cucamonga,Ca
3
392charger Offline
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Rancho Cucamonga,Ca
Sounds good. I'll stop by Napa today. Am I asking for inner tie rod bushings?

Re: 2002 Special "Clunk" up front [Re: 392charger] #945004
03/21/11 04:17 PM
03/21/11 04:17 PM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,377
Ohio
Todd Offline
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Ohio
Yep. Moog makes a nice kit that does both and comes with everything you need. I think the Napa premium one does also.

Re: 2002 Special "Clunk" up front [Re: 392charger] #945005
03/21/11 09:06 PM
03/21/11 09:06 PM
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Posts: 515
Bolingbrook, IL
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HemiRunner Offline
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Bolingbrook, IL
392, Are you seeing movement at the inner dust boot of the rack or the bushings where the rack mounts to the cradle? Inner tie rods don't have bushings, it is a ball & cup setup & screws into the inner rack. If your turning the wheel with the tie on the ground, you will see some deflection in the rack mount bushings, but it shouldn't be excessive. Best way to check inner & outer tie rods is have the wheel off the ground, put your hand on the boot end closest to the rack or on the outer tie rod end. Have someone sharply jiggle the tire side to side, not a smoothe motion as you won't feel the pop as well. The outer tie rod you can try & move it up & down as well to see there is any movement in the joint. Rack mount bushings should be avail from Napa. If it's an iner tie rod, you need a special tool to remove/install it. Some parts stores have these that you can rent & they aren't that had to change.


Blown & Injected, need I say more? 71 Road Runner 04 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 CTD
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