Just finished the Magnum head swap on my Fury, which is a huge difference by the way! My problem is a hot start issue with the Edelbrock carb on it. It fires right up with no choke when its cold, but when its hot, it cranks for at least 5-6 seconds and I have to hold the pedal halfway down to get her to fire up. I just pulled this carb off of my Charger and it ran perfectly on there. Float level and float drop is dead on according to Edelbrocks manual, I just picked up a thicker baseplate gasket, switched to a open element air cleaner, and the fuel line is nowhere near the block/head, or exhaust. I'm pulling 19 in/hg at idle, and am running a stock parts store replacement fuel pump. There doesn't appear to be any fuel dripping down the barrels while this occurs. I even tried my original Thermoquad on it last night and it ran perfectly. Any ideas as to what I can do or try to remedy this?

Do you have a good engine to chassis ground strap? My father's car had issues starting hot. His car has solid engine mounts so we didn't put a ground strap on the engine. He added a strap from the back of the engine to the fire wall and it cured the issue.

Obviously you have a heat issue. Do your best to insulate the carb from the manifold and shield the fuel line. Adding
a fuel return line may help to cool things down, but I don't know how involved you want to get here. It may also help
slightly to add a larger main fuel line.

The insulator will help and electric fuel pump will definitly help. Even a part store cheapie will help pump fuel to the carb

they dont like heat or fuel pressure above 4-5 lbs

I blocked the heat cross over with my LD4B intake and use a 1/2" stack of alum plates and gaskets as a heat disapater

works very well,I drive 40 miles and the intake is hot enuff you cant hold your hand on it,the carb is luke warm to the touch

they will evap/perk the gas with a quickness and you have what you describe

I did have 2 of the 1/2" disapater kits to make a 1" stack and they are the 4-hole style added a little torque down low and better throttle responce on mine

on my performer intake I used the eddie 3/8 fiber gasket with the divider down the center for two oblong holes..eddie recomends that with all of them

I run the same alum stack style for the spredbore q-jet and stock intake also

IMHO,they are well worth it and work good

I HAVE ALWAYS FOUND MY PROBLEM WITH HARD STARTING IS TOO MUCH FUEL PRESSURE. TAKE OFF THE AIR CLEANER AFTER ITS WARMED UP AND IF THE PRIMARIES ARE LEAKING GAS YOU HAVE FOUND THE ISSUE. AFB & EDDY CARBS DON'T LIKE MORE THAN 6 PSI. IT WAS YEARS OF HARD STARTING WHEN WARM BEFORE I LEARNED THAT THE PROBLEM WAS TOO MUCH FUEL PESSURE

Had same problem, tried external regulator with no improvement.

This fixed my problems

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-9266/

That's actually the same gasket I bought. Didn't seem to do much of anything. I already miss my thermoquad, but I hate adapter plates

Do you recommend an aluminum spacer, or phenolic?

4 hole phenolic is all you need. That, and remembering that you are driving a carbureted engine, not computer controlled EFI.

How thick do you need? It depends on the engine and your environment. Years back, I found a bunch of 1/4" paper gaskets with the 4 holes. What I'd do is start stacking them up until I found the best thickness, then bought the phenolic spacer that most closely matched.

An electric fan with a thermostat might not be a bad idea either, and will help to cool the engine after shutdown.

I'll try a phenolic spacer. It amazes me Edelbrock sells as many of these pieces of garbage as they do. I find it ridiculous that you have to jump through so many hoops to get one of these things to run right. I never had this problem with an original old AFB or AVS!

Unless you go thicker than the Edlebrock gasket I doubt you'll see any difference. It's basically the same thing as a 1/4" phenolic spacer.

Never used to be a problem years ago as gas wouldn't evaporate as fast as it does now. Especially the winter gas formulation.

And the orig OEM carbs were zinc, not aluminum, right?

Might get a new needle/seat (2). You can get em seperately & are cheap

Never ceases to amaze me.

Carb worked fine on one car, swapped to another and it's acting up so the carb is a POS.

Right, keep throwing money at it. How about you test your fuel pressure like a number of people have told you to.

I have been running Edelbrock carbs since 88 and have never had the issues people seem to have, but it must just be me being lucky I guess.