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Re: Small block race block
[Re: theclutcher]
#921996
02/08/11 09:25 AM
02/08/11 09:25 AM
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,978
Hilltown Pa
1967dartgt
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,978
Hilltown Pa
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There is only one block on moparts and its not even together...
Brett Miller W9 cnc'd heads
STR Chassis fabraction
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Re: Small block race block
[Re: 1967dartgt]
#921997
02/08/11 12:41 PM
02/08/11 12:41 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,813
Blue Ridge, VA
Plumb Wired
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,813
Blue Ridge, VA
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Someone educate me on the benefits of the XR1 Ritter block over an R3.  I understand the market for the XR2 to get a taller deck, larger cube P7 headed combo but I just don't see the need in the XR1. IMO if Kent would have had the XR1 done in aluminum he'd sell quite a few. I for one would buy one or two myself. Mike Gray
RIP Monte Smith
aka: OutlawFish
'98 Bickel Dodge Dakota PST
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Re: Small block race block
[Re: Plumb Wired]
#921998
02/08/11 01:00 PM
02/08/11 01:00 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,138
San Angelo, Texas
W8n2DustU
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,138
San Angelo, Texas
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Quote:
Someone educate me on the benefits of the XR1 Ritter block over an R3. I understand the market for the XR2 to get a taller deck, larger cube P7 headed combo but I just don't see the need in the XR1. IMO if Kent would have had the XR1 done in aluminum he'd sell quite a few. I for one would buy one or two myself.
Mike Gray
Mike he told me he would have the first 3 aluminum blocks ready near the first of April. Mine will be machined for the P5 head. May also get myself one for the W8 heads. 
2010 Toxic Orange Challenger built by B and B Racecars! All aluminum R4/P5 engine, Proformance TH400 (3 speed) tranny, full Reid case, nodular 9" rearend, full Dragpak suspension, Protorque custom converter, BS3, PTE 85mm turbo, fire core wires, carbon doors, carbon front clip, and a whole lot more!
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Re: Small block race block
[Re: W8n2DustU]
#921999
02/08/11 01:55 PM
02/08/11 01:55 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,813
Blue Ridge, VA
Plumb Wired
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,813
Blue Ridge, VA
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Thanks Marty!
Where does anyone find any information on these blocks short of calling Kent? I've never had any success with him calling me back. I was told of some cam core and distributor issues with the blocks have they been addressed? Is there a webiste. I know Rick Luizzo (sp?) was involved in these blocks as well but it looks like he's fallen off the radar.
Mike Gray
Last edited by OutlawFish; 02/09/11 10:54 AM.
RIP Monte Smith
aka: OutlawFish
'98 Bickel Dodge Dakota PST
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Re: Small block race block
[Re: Plumb Wired]
#922000
02/08/11 08:24 PM
02/08/11 08:24 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,138
San Angelo, Texas
W8n2DustU
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,138
San Angelo, Texas
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I called him and left a message. He called me back a few days later. Can't remember exactly what he said but I remember him saying that he was making some changes and he wouldn't sale me one if it was flawed. He is going to do the lifter bores for the P5 hemi heads for me. I want the tall deck so I can get alot of cubes out of it. Plan on putting it in the new challenger. If you talk to him, let me know. Just curiuos if he is still on schedule. 
2010 Toxic Orange Challenger built by B and B Racecars! All aluminum R4/P5 engine, Proformance TH400 (3 speed) tranny, full Reid case, nodular 9" rearend, full Dragpak suspension, Protorque custom converter, BS3, PTE 85mm turbo, fire core wires, carbon doors, carbon front clip, and a whole lot more!
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Re: Small block race block
[Re: Plumb Wired]
#922001
02/08/11 08:27 PM
02/08/11 08:27 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,547
State College, PA
RyanJ
moparts member
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moparts member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,547
State College, PA
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Quote:
Someone educate me on the benefits of the XR1 Ritter block over an R3. I understand the market for the XR2 to get a taller deck, larger cube P7 headed combo but I just don't see the need in the XR1. IMO if Kent would have had the XR1 done in aluminum he'd sell quite a few. I for one would buy one or two myself.
Mike Gray
XR blocks use all 5 billet main caps, fully sealed cam tunnel, & a true priority main oil feed that is seperate from the lifter galleys. It weighs more than the R3's & has different freeze plug diameters.... little different lifter boss design.... that's about the differences. They cost about $600 more than an R3 (without bushings) the one SST showed is an upgraded bushed block done by Brian Tillburg here in PA who is doing the bushings for Kent, which costs extra. The additional cost over n R3 is basically to offset the Billet main caps & ARP studs they come with.
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Re: Small block race block
[Re: Plumb Wired]
#922002
02/08/11 08:48 PM
02/08/11 08:48 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,547
State College, PA
RyanJ
moparts member
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moparts member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,547
State College, PA
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Quote:
Thanks Marty!
Where does anyone find any information on these blocks short of calling Kent? I've never had any success with him calling me back. I was told of some cam core and distributor issues with the blocks have they been addressed? Is their a webiste. I know Rick Luizzo (sp?) was involved in these blocks as well but it looks like he's fallen off the radar.
Mike Gray
Just keep calling him... he always returns my calls, but... I suppose there is reason for that. Best to just keep trying rather than relying on calling back.
I know the majority of info, just might not like what I have to say about them LOL.
As for XR2's & camshaft.... basically it just takes an R5 cam with the snout machined down to LA diameter & an LA keyway machined in. I have an LSM here, as far as I know it was first one actually done correctly, because Kent asked me to email him pics of it after I got it, so apparently he had never even seen one that was done. Rick L was doing all the XR2 development & now seems to be out of the loop on them. Kent said he had'nt talked to Rick in long while last time I was up @ Kent's a few months ago.
An R5 distributor will not just drop in... you must make spacers/do some fab work to make it work.
The new foundry seems to be making a nicer casting than the originals. The XR1 pictured above is a 2nd generation casting & is easy to ID the iron quality compared to the early blocks. Completely different look to the iron. Biggest problem he has now been having is machining issues with the shop in Indianapolis.. they can't machine a hole straight if life depended on it. I returned an XR2 to him couple months ago & while I was there I got to look @ a stack of XR1s that had all sorts of machining issues similar to what this one had. I think out of maybe 15 blocks I saw there, 1 was useable as it sat. The machine shop knows of their issues & is trying to fix them. I don't know exactly what they are doing wrong, whether it is in setup or in tool flex, but I would lean toward using cheap tooling if I had to guess. Holes such as the priority main are wandering off of CL.
Here's XR2 we lightened.... I forget what it weighs, I think it's like 187 @ 9.07" deck.
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Re: Small block race block
[Re: Plumb Wired]
#922007
02/08/11 10:53 PM
02/08/11 10:53 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,547
State College, PA
RyanJ
moparts member
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moparts member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,547
State College, PA
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Quote:
My question still stands what is the niche for the XR1? In my experience the R3 will handle anything you want to throw at it. Why not do them in aluminum? Didn't Ernie Elliott make a run of aluminum blocks? Does anyone know if they exist? Deck height, etc.
Quote:
Quote:
Someone educate me on the benefits of the XR1 Ritter block over an R3. I understand the market for the XR2 to get a taller deck, larger cube P7 headed combo but I just don't see the need in the XR1. IMO if Kent would have had the XR1 done in aluminum he'd sell quite a few. I for one would buy one or two myself.
Mike Gray
XR blocks use all 5 billet main caps, fully sealed cam tunnel, & a true priority main oil feed that is seperate from the lifter galleys. It weighs more than the R3's & has different freeze plug diameters.... little different lifter boss design.... that's about the differences. They cost about $600 more than an R3 (without bushings) the one SST showed is an upgraded bushed block done by Brian Tillburg here in PA who is doing the bushings for Kent, which costs extra. The additional cost over n R3 is basically to offset the Billet main caps & ARP studs they come with.
The niche is the billet caps, the sealed cam tunnel & the priority oil feed. Those are the only benefits over an off shelf R3.
The Ernie Elliot blocks most certainly do exist I have seen them in person. It's an aluminum copy of an R5, they are so expensive you never see them.
What is the huge benefit of aluminum other than repair ability? I've got a Tall deck 48 Siamese here @ 182 LBS that I would not hesitate to put 1600+ through forced induction. Say they do an aluminum block XR1 @ 105 lbs. Is the 75 LB weight savings really that big of a deal? You will be giving up ring seal & IMO deck seal as well with alum block if looking @ doing non N/A motor, that would be a major concern for me.
Big Block/Hemi Alum blocks like an INDY Maxx or a KB are designed to be alum blocks rom the get go & designed to be ran as a sleeved cyl wall block (same as an Aluminum SB Mopar Sprint block). Doing a copy of an iron designed block in alum & then just sticking sleeves in it is not going to work as well IMO as a block designed from scratch as an alum block. Chrysler found that out years ago when they tried to do the Jeep grand Cherokee Aluminum blocks, all they did was pour an iron magnum block in aluminum & they did not hold up well at all in testing & never made production. There is a reason Chrysler did'nt just cast an R block in aluminum when they wanted to go 410 Sprint racing in mid 90's.
If Kent does an alum copy of an XR1 I'm sure it will be able to hold up to moderate power use (sub 900?) Above that I'd want no part of it. It's not re-enforced in proper areas to be ran as high power Aluminum block. ie it was never designed for that purpose. I'll stay with the tried & true for those power levels, like you said, you can't hurt an R3 unless rotating assy blows up inside of it & then cracks it etc.
BTW should have Donald's motor back together by the weekend. Just assembled heads & filed the rings today.
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Re: Small block race block
[Re: Plumb Wired]
#922010
02/08/11 11:08 PM
02/08/11 11:08 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,813
Blue Ridge, VA
Plumb Wired
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,813
Blue Ridge, VA
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I see i'm beating a dead horse here. I forgot Mopar people are cheap. I'm just tired of beating my head against the wall with the SB stuff. Spent a lot of money and we are still just a participant, I want to be the car to beat. Time to look more seriously at the Predator or 99 Hemi stuff. Flame on!  Mike Gray
RIP Monte Smith
aka: OutlawFish
'98 Bickel Dodge Dakota PST
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Re: Small block race block
[Re: Plumb Wired]
#922011
02/08/11 11:36 PM
02/08/11 11:36 PM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 437
south central pa
bdaz smblk
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 437
south central pa
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I hope they make a aluminum xr2 block.If they do I will be one of the first ones to buy one.Kenny
3120lb, small block, 10.5" tire, NA, through exhaust, full int, WITH 83/4 REAR, 9.0 at 150mph
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Re: Small block race block
[Re: Plumb Wired]
#922012
02/08/11 11:38 PM
02/08/11 11:38 PM
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 3,112
LONG ISLAND
fishy340
master
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master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 3,112
LONG ISLAND
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Quote:
I would think aluminum would be more than 30#-40# lighter. Where did those numbers come from? I'm willing to pay and I'm sure there are others as well. Nice thing about aluminum is if you hurt it, it can be repaired.
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for 30lb or 40 lbs not really worth the casheesh for alum,make sense to me 
maybe a little off w the weight but ryanj and as far as being cheap(not this man)
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but will be nice for sure.
