has anybody used this kit, i have a 68 dodge coronet with drum brakes looking to convert to front disc., this kit is very affordable
63 74 Charger Belvedere GTX Brake Conversion Kit NEW
item # 140508356913 on ebay

thanks
Randy

I don't see hoses, or a proportioning valve. If you have a pull your own part junk yard in your area, I suggest going there and seing if you can get all the stuff from a car there: master cylinder(and booster), prop. valve, lines and front hoses(for making sure it will work to match new ones), spindles and everything else. New rotors/bearings/calipers/pads are affordable enough that I believe you'll still be less than the price of that kit. Who knows, you may get lucky and find one that just had all that replaced. I installed spindles from an 88 Diplomat on a friend's 66 Coronet several years ago.

See MA Disc Swap Tech

Careful using F/J/M/R/Late-B knuckles...they are taller and increase bumpsteer.

Rick

Someone had spindles and caliper brackets in the swapmeet area on here last month. Rotors and calipers are cheap from Advance Auto, etc.. Likewise with bearings, seals and hoses. Ehrenberg even has reasonably priced new master cylinders on here. The prop valve would be about $40 from Summit. I'd piece it together (I did !!).

Rick, Very interesting reading. I'm dealing with a '69 b-body, also,
but mine had a MPB disc conversion done by the former owner.
The aftermarket kits should have all the bugs worked out. The brakes
don't work bad stopping the car, although I don't think the rear
drums are working. I was interested in the steering 'abnormalities'
you stated from mixing the wrong parts.
Although I have paperwork from the former owner showing alignment
being done and a rebuilt steering box from Steer and Gear, the
car handles poorly especially on secondary roads. Any input on this
system, anyone?

I personally dont know why people worry about installing rear disks, Have the rear drums ever proven inadequate? And the front brakes do 70 percent of the stopping anyway.

Rear disc brakes:

1. Look cool

2. Lighter than drums

3. Less likely to turn mushy when overheated

Most people will never feel the difference on daily drivers, however.

I guess the advantage would be less unsprung weight but I wouldn't go out of my way to install them. The drums will do the job just fine.

The later spindles are a less than ideal option. Why would you use them when you can source the proper ones
or buy repops from master power?

Eberg has always cautioned against the later pieces, and Mopar Muscle has, IMO, downplayed the effect of such
a swap to save face after recommending they be used.

Using the larger spindles would cause problems with stock/original ball joints. Newer joints have an increased range
of motion but they are at their max with these. With all of the manufacturing issues, who is to say that the chinese
will continue to add in this extra wiggle room or build a ball joint to the specs required to live with these spindles,
specs that have nothing to do with a factory application?

We have had some long, thoughtful, and numbers packed threads about this but moparts mods would never adopt
them into the tech section, so they've all be lost to time. Take a look at the camber and roll center figures in the mm link,
they say quite a bit.

Get the right parts and be done with it. Who solves a problem with a new one? One major rule that I always try to
follow with cars is that anyone off the street should have confidence that the car should operate predictably
should they wind up driving it.

By the way, something that I am not seeing in the MM link, that was in the original article, was that the inital
specs were not set to a stock mopar, but rather had two changes. One was ride height, I don't recall the other.
The reason I mention this is that is could potentially skew the results in favor of, or minimizing, differences between
the spindles. Since the numbers were wrong from the get-go, all the recorded 'data' did was fuel further speculation.

In any event, Chrysler Co engineers didn't just pick a design out of a hat, AND they continued to produce BOTH sets
of spindles at the same time. If it were ok to use the later spindles, don't you think they would have simply made them THE
spindle on all production cars?

What is laughable is that the MM crew has even gone so far as to suggest that these spindles may be an IMPROVEMENT!

As I have proved beyond doubt in the past on this board, MM will pass on any tech 'article' submitted to them as gospel
but will not stand behind what they print. You can't have it both ways, boys. They won't tell you to take their articles with
a grain of salt, but I will. FYI

Quote:

---

If the spindles are interchangeable, why would Chrysler have gone to the trouble and expense to produce a new design

---

As often as this topic has come up I can't recall this point ever having been made in the past. Either way, it is absolutely THE best defence ever! Well put!

Hey, check it out. www.resto-modtechnology.com b-body disc brake kits for $396.00 sku # is swbks6374

I know this is off topic but I am still looking for verification that I can forward hang the calipers on my '68 Coronet with a OEM sway bar with no caliper to sway bar contact by shortening the the sway bar links!!

thanks for the web site, that will help out alot

thanks for all the input from everybody, this will shed some light on what i have to look forward to

I ended up with the SSBC kit.It used my exsisting spindles and have very nice 4 piston calipers.Sure,there are upgrades to aluminum calipers or crossdrilled & slotted rotors,but did not up grade.EVERYTHING was in the kit right down to cotter pins,hoses & prop valve No problem stopping over 3800lbs at 135 MPH in the 1/4 mile.