Looking to wire up the test stand,anybody have a wiring diagram or any info on the proper way to do this.Looking for ign,starter,electric
fuel pump,ect.

A lot depends on whether you want to hook up the alternator--not needed

and what kind of ignition system you have----some high perf. systems don't need a ballast, and therefore don't need a ballast "bypass in start."

and......do you really need to shut the pump off separately from ignition?

so basics are:

Big main ground from battery to block

Big main cable from battery to big stud of starter.

Pull a no12 or so off the big stud, run up to your "panel", and put an inline fuseholder 30A inline.

On the end of that no12, build/ buy / use something for a "hot buss.

From the hot buss run a wire to a good heavy push button, and the other terminal down to the solenoid "start" terminal

From the hot buss run a wire to your ignition system.

If you're using a ballast resistor, you MAY or MAY NOT need a "bypass" during start.

Two simple ways to do that, either use a heavy diode (Radio Shack) or a relay fired off the solenoid lead to the low side of the ballast.

How much more complicated do you want it?

Thats complicated enough for me
Thanks for the info!!

You definately sound knowledgable about the subject,but guys like me need a bit more help. Fist, what is a buss? Second, any chance anyone has a simple diagram? Man that would be great.

Large cable from batt positive post to large starter lug. Large cable from batt neg post to block. Momentary (spring loaded) contact switch to connect the large starter terminal (that has the large batt cable on it) to the small starter terminal to start it. Switched (on/off) 12v to (1) the wire at the "point" of the ECU pentastar connector (4 pin ECU) and the upstream (input) side of the 2 terminal ballast resistor. the other end of the ballast goes to the coil positive (+) primary terminal. I'd run a seperate 12V switched (on/off) wire from the large starter lug to the elec fuel pump (or better yet from a buss terminal which is kind of like a 12V source point like the fender starter relay large batt terminal was in the car if you grasp what Yancy is saying there as it's easier/safer to feed voltage out from it rather than from the large starter "batt" terminal on the starter itself. For a bare bones setup only the coil and the ECU need to be fed 12V. The dist self generates a signal that triggers the ECU to collapse the coil pri circuit & generate the secondary spark. I think it's a good idea to have seperate manual control of the elec pump (for priming and emergency shutdown). As mentioned one of the ECU terminals goes to switched 12V. Another goes to the coil negative primary terminal and 2 more ECU terminals go to the dist. (diagram in archives). For easier starting (critical on a new cam/ring breakin) can run switched 12V directly to coil positive primary terminal to bypass the ballast (switch it off when it starts). Need an efficient fan setup as it's not moveing forward like a car on the road.