Ok I have 1954 dodge coronet with the original 241 rebuilt with a mild cam, block hugger headers upgraded oil system, among other things.

My current issues are as follows:

1 the headers removed the heater tube to the choke on the existing original carb making the choke inoperable.
2 to accommodate the alternator, oil filter and headers i lifted the engine and transmission mounts 2" causing problems with the original linkages throttle and trans kickdown.

I am considering an adapter to a newer holley 500 cfm 2bbl along with a lokar mopar kickdown cable, and something else for the throttle linkage.

I have already had a minor accident (drove off a bank) due to the trans linkage binding the throttle wide open. At minimum a slot on the linkage like modern mopars have will prevent this in the future.

Anyone have any experience with the carb update and making linkages work on a powerflite/early hemi combo? Or even input on jut running the holley on an early hemi.

Let me start out saying I have no 1st hand experience with your combo, but speaking from general terms, I can see where lifting the engine and trans will put a bind on the throttle linkage. Is the trans issue related to a throttle kick down, or is the issue with gear selection? That has a cable gear shift, if that is correct, I suspect the problem lays in a mechanical throttle linkage binding.

Does the trans linkage contact the body before is can reach full travel?

Does the throttle linkage bind on the motor before reaching full travel? Does the throttle work without binding if the trans linkage is disconnected?

Either one or both linkages can be binding, it would be best to work on each one individually. The factory just didn't allow enough clearance for 2" of movement, you are going to have to grow things that 2" to get everything back in the correct relationship without contacting something. An aftermarket setup might work, but they too have to be messed with to get to work properly, they seldom just "work" right out of the package.

You will also have to deal with an adapter to bolt that 500 Holley onto your 241 and you will need to adapt the throttle linkage to it as well. If you want to move forward with the 500, might as well install it and the needed adapter before you mess with any linkage, or you will have to do it again.

As for the choke, I've wrapped the correct diameter copper tube around one header tube (2 wraps all the way around) and connect that to the carb. It works pretty well. Gene

All mechanical links at the moment. I've got the gas pedal to carb worked out. Without the kick down on it never binds.

I DEFINATELY have to make more clearance for the kickdown arm on trans itself. I'll probably have to build an access panel with a hump in it.

On the copper tube to the choke. I have considered this tried bending one up as well. I think I have to cap or seal the far end is that correct? I'm not positive how it works in there. If you can give me an explanation on how the old choke works it would help me come up with a solution to that problem.

You probably need to leave the end of the tube open, it should be a pretty small inside diameter tube like 3/16" or even maybe 1/8", right? I believe the 50s choke tube was a draw through tube. There should be a vacume draw in the choke housing that pulls air from the tube. The tube was routed from an open air port between the manifold and the head and was routed through the manifold where the air was warmed as it was pulled through. The warmed air went through the tube to the choke spring to assist heating the choke spring to open the choke.

By wrapping the tubing around a header tube and connecting it to the carb, the vacume from the choke housing will pull the air warmed by the header tube wrap into the choke to warm the choke spring. It may or may not be as effective as the original setup was, but should be close enough to function. You may have to lean out the choke spring just a mark or two, but I would try it first. I think the worst that will happen is that the choke won't fully open as soon as the original setup did. Might get rid of a half warm engine stumble that isn't there when the motor is warm (if you have that stumble now).

You may be able to hammer the floor pan enough to clear the trans linkage (might need a punch or a piece of steel to reach the floor pan where it needs to be moved), shouldn't need much clearance. It would be easier to hammer the floor then it will be cutting a section out and adding a hump. To cut and weld, you at least need to remove the carpet and seat so you don't catch your car on fire. If you end up cutting and welding the floor pan, watch where your sparks go, and have something readily available to put the fire out, once a fire starts inside a car, you have about 20 seconds to put it out before you loose the car. (I weld in floor pans all the time at my welding shop).
Good luck, Gene

Poorboy thanks for the info, it got me looking at the carb/choke and I discovered I did not have the themospring assembly seated correctly, so it would bind when tightened. Pushed in retainer clip and set it up and it now has some choke and will start and idle. Now I have to add the heat tube so it opens when it gets hot. I can tell it pulls exhaust through the choke, not sure if Iwill weld some kind of bung onto the headers or put something outside coiled around them yet. I'll have to get some insulation/header wrap to keep the heat to the tube as well.

I think just wrapping the tube around the header tube and running it to the carb will work just fine, the original choke tube was not insulated. Just have the open end facing towards the motor. Gene