Built a mild cam 440 engine for the 64 dodge. It feels like it wants to run fine but I get a horrible rattling sound whenever I give the engine more gas like if i'm going down the road and If I give it more gas to speed up, it sounds like someone is shaking a set of sleigh bells. It just sounds awful. When I let off the gas it goes away. It has 40 to 45 psi oil pressure all the time so I don't think its the bottom end. Checked the compression and all cylinders are between 165 and 185 psi. The timing is set at 12 btdc. Someone said they can hear the noise even while its idleing. Any ideas what to look for next? I don't think its in the botton end.
Thanks all, Alex

Better retard your timing and run premium gas. Your compression readings are pretty high.

back off the timing and use better gas or have nasty holes in pistons.

Yup, absolute highest cylinder pressure for me is 185psi. and with that and iron heads, you need to be spot on with your tuning. Make sure the curve is not steep, it needs to be gradual, and your fuel curve and carb tuning need to be very close. When you get those right, it will go away. You will need to run premium unleaded... 93 or better.

First thing, unplug the vacuum advance from your distributor and move up to the highest octane gas you can get at the pump around where you live.

Also, is this a stock distributor or has it been recurved? Or an aftermarket dist?

The distrubutor is the Mopar electronic unit with a orange box. Is there a way to get the timing set to where it needs to be without having a timing tape? Are you guys saying to disconnect the vacumme permently or just till the timing is set? Thanks, Alex

Use a dial back timing light and you can check the total advance with and without the vacuum signal. Also , have you considered piston slap/rock?

Some people like to recconnect the vacuum advance. I Leave mine capped and I like it much better. try 34 or 36 deg total and leave it capped. take it for a ride and see what you think.

If you can run the vacuum advance without getting detonation, there is no reason not to. I would just try disconnecting it and running it and seeing if it goes away. If the noise stops, start adjusting the vacuum advance and see if you can get the noise to stop. If no amount of adjusting it will correct the problem, cap it permanently.

On Mopar 7 1/4" diameter balancers, if you measure 2 1/4" in the advanced direction you'll be at 36 degrees advanced.

What's the quench distance, Alex???

Daytona, do you mean if I measure from tdc and go counter clockwise that distance it will be at 36*?

Big Squeeze, I don't know the quenck but I can tell you that I'm using TRW 6pack pistons. With stock iron heads,452. Alex
I will be doing these things with the timing in the morning to see how it works out.

Just go to an auto parts or sears store and buy a timing light w/ an advance. It's by far the easiest way to make sure your engine is set right. You can get a decent one for $70-80 maybe cheaper.

Let my try this one more time just to be sure.
I need to make a new timeing mark on the balancer 2 1/4 inches clockwise from the orginial mark and bring the new mark to the "0"on the timing plate? I must be a little slow and just want to be sure I understand before I blow this thing up.
Thanks, Alex

Alex you are doing fine. We are here to help each other out & I get helped here every day in one way or the other . Standing in front of the car bending over looking in, make a magic marker mark 2&1/4" to the right(clockwise) from the factory Line. this is about 35.5 degrees which would be a good starting point for you to set TOTAL timing & do this with vac advance DISCONNECTED & plugged & the eng revved up to ~2500 rpm or so to where the dist weights are fully advance as far as possible (in other words it wont advance any higher). lock down the dist & for reference see what this puts your initial timing at when you go back to idle, reconnect your vac adv & take her out & see if you hear any "pinging".this is the rattling that you are hearing when you accelerate that sounds like a bunch of marbles being shaken in a tin can & it is VERY damaging to an eng & must be stopped QUICKLY. EDIT I reread your post & yes you want your magic marker mark to be at the "0" on the timing plate.

OK, Did what everyone was saying about setting the timing to 34-36* as directed. The engine did sound better and idled a lot better. Took it for a ride, good power but when I get on it, it still sounds like marbles in a tin can for about 1 to 2 seconds then stops. This is much much much better than before. I don't have the premium gas in it yet because its fairly full tank. Other than the gas is there anything else to do now. I left the vacume adv plugged during test drive.
Getting better, Alex

Back the tining off a couple of more degrees.

Is it possible to go too far on the timing? I will stop tomorrow after work and buy a timing light with advance. What is the absolute max timing ? 36??? Alex

what do you think your compression is? 36* shouldn't be too bad. You should also fatten your carb up? what kind is it?

Today I put in at least 10 gallons of 93 octaine, hooked up the new digital timing light with advance and brought the engine up to 2500 rpm and checked the timing. It came in exactly at 36*. This amazed me because I had set it by measuring 2 1/4 inches from the factory mark, like another Moparts member suggested. Didn't get to try it on the road with the 93 gas due to a meeting I had to go to. Hopefully tomorrow!
The carb is a edlebrock 800cfm and the distributor is about 7 months old. Someone asked about these items. Thanks all, Alex

Are you sure the noise is coming from 'inside' the engine, and that it's not something like the fanblades are hitting the shroud or radiator when the engine torque's in it's motormounts when you put the power on?