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A few more questions please...

When building a back half car with 4-link setup, in what order do the following steps/items happen in? What needs to be figured out first that would determine specific items ordered?

Certain things known:
1) Wheelbase established.
2) Tire size known (rim backspacing undetermined)
3) frame rail spacing established (26")
4) Tub size established (40")

I do not know the following yet (and need to determine the order which to figure them out)
1) ride height
2) Rear end housing width
3) backspacing of 15 X 15 rims
4) tub install height (based on ride height)

For mock up purposes for the build, do I just need the tire/rim to establish rear end width and tub location?

I know it is a lot of questions, but you guys have the knowledge.

Thanks,
Greg.

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Buy the EXACT wheels and tires your going to race with.....don't guess or estimate......

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Quote:

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A few more questions please...

When building a back half car with 4-link setup, in what order do the following steps/items happen in? What needs to be figured out first that would determine specific items ordered?

Certain things known:
1) Wheelbase established.
2) Tire size known (rim backspacing undetermined)
3) frame rail spacing established (26")
4) Tub size established (40")

I do not know the following yet (and need to determine the order which to figure them out)
1) ride height
2) Rear end housing width
3) backspacing of 15 X 15 rims
4) tub install height (based on ride height)

For mock up purposes for the build, do I just need the tire/rim to establish rear end width and tub location?

I know it is a lot of questions, but you guys have the knowledge.

Thanks,
Greg.

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Buy the EXACT wheels and tires your going to race with.....don't guess or estimate......

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that will determine alot.,, then set it
at the ride height you want... that will determine
the height you need for the tubs(make sure you leave
enough for tire growth)

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Thanks very much for the info. I understand what everyone is saying. I will get the rims/slicks and figure out the width the rear housing has to be.

I now have the body mounted on a rigid jig perfectly leveled, since i removed the rear half of the car. Before I proceed with actually fitting and welding the rear frame rails and crossmembers in, does the body have to be removed off the jig for mock up? I am thinking I can lift the rear up to where I want it to sit at ride height and do the mock up with it mounted on the jig. I do not want to remove it because I don't want anything to move before the frame rails and cage go in.

Thanks again,
Greg.

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I'm doing a full chassis right now... next week I'll
roll my chassis jig in and set the car on it... I
use the jig as the ground surface then reference
from that
This is where I'm at now

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Another

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Thanks Mr P body. Got it.

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If you look at the faster Super Stock cars, they have the same limitations of higher than desired ride height due to stock front suspension, but want a low chassis bracket to get the IC needed. They usually have tubular main framerails that are a few inches below the floorpan and that gets the bottom of the chassis brackets low enough. I'll attach a small pic of Gary Wolkwitz's SS Hemi Dart that is that way. But I have seen a couple that are like mine, hanging down with a support brace.

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Mr pea body i wish you lived by me I would love to help u build that car ...great project ...I might have to come down to dragweek in topeka just to meet u .............rook

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Hopefully it'll be done and on the trip

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On the flooring and firewall NHRA allows .024 steel or .032 alum. The weight of .024 (24 guage)steel is 1 lb per ft. 20gauge steel (.0360) is 1.5 lb per ft. .032 (20 guage) alum is .452 lb per ft. and .0403( 18 guage) alum is .569 lb per ft. John

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Thanks very much for the info John and Rowin'. Much appreciation for the heads up.


Here's another question. What have you guys done as far as mounting the frame connectors. The rear attachment point is at the rear frame rails (set at 26") and it should spread out towards the front to meet where the front rails mount to the x member. But, If I do that, I don't think I will be able to get the torsion bars out. Besides getting rid of the torsion bar setup, what is the solution. No room on the insides of the torsion bar mounts to fasten them (I don't think)??

Thanks,
greg.