Will have my 68 Coronet R/T stripped to bare metal and the sheet metal work done in a few days, what do I need, or should i use Primer wise on the bare metal, i was informed to use etching primeer, but i want to do this right the first time, so i need sent in the right direction. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks

Just a hobbyist here but I prefer, in substrate order: Metal, body filler, epoxy primer, filler primer (that then gets blocked) then color.

Never had an adhesion problem so don't see a real need for the self etching primer. Others may disagree.

Epoxy primer without a doubt. Self-etch primer was fine when epoxy didn't come in rattle cans but now its outlived its usefulness. Epoxy primer first then do all your bondoing, that way you don't have to worry about any exposed bare metal getting a flash rust. The epoxy with bond to bare metal better than bondo - particularly if the bondo is really thin like a skim coat. Also, looking at bare metal with all the scratches and scuff marks can be deceiving, the primered surface will give you a better view of what needs work.

I'm also just a hobbyist, but I say strip to bare metal, then coat the surface with a phosphoric acid based metal prep liquid. Leave it to react with the metal for 10 mins or so then clean it off with laquer thinner. The prep liquid serves to chemically neutralize any remaining rust you can't see and lightly etch the metal. Then comes your epoxy primer, then bondo, then spot epoxy prime over the bondo. Then if you want you can do a urethane surfacer primer, sand that smooth then hose on your actual paint. If you download and read the p-sheets for the line of paint/primer you want to use you can get an idea of what products can be used with what.

Well, for what it's worth, I have been a PPG Paint rep for over 20 years, I collect and restore as well, so if you want to use PPG products, here's some info. Your best bet on the bare metal is DP Epoxy primer. it has excellent adhesion, and corrosion protection, and you can bondo on top of it after it cures. This will keep any moisture from getting to your bare metal during the whole restoration process, and the bondo will stick better to this product than it will to the bare metal. DEFINATELY DO NOT USE rattle can products on the bare metal first, if your foundation is weak, the rest of the money you spend on products will be wasted....
As for primer surfacer, K-36 or K-38 high build is a solid choice, there are many newer products to choose from, but these are old stand bys that work well, and won't break the bank. If you're going base/clear, Deltron basecoat (DBC) is very reliable and affordable. As for Cloearcoats, there are many options, depending on where the car will be painted, ideally, rent a spray booth that has baking capabilities, you'll be thanking yourself when the job's done. The most popular Clearcoat for a restoration in my area is DCU 2021. This stuff is easy to spray, has excellent gloss and durability, and isn't terribly hard to wetsand and buff. If the car will be a solid color, and you don't want a clearcoat, use Concept Acrylic Uretahne (DCC). This stuff is a bit tougher to deal with, but the results are awesome gloss and excellent durability. It does not buff that easy, so here agian, rent a good spray booth, or pay a professional to shoot it. It will be money well spent.. By the way, expect to spend at least a grand on paint and materials. There are other products out there that are much cheaper, but remember, you get what you pay for.... Hope this helps, and good luck, Mike

Mike..... EXACTLY!
This is the truth boys and girls. Been using PPG's best products for years and never had a problem. I have won first at the Nats with every car I have painted and took to show. Their best clear is expensive but I won't use anything else. PPG all the way

Thanks for all the good info, the ppg sounds like thats the way to go, i was figuring about $1500.00 on paint. Thanks for the info.

I used PPG from epoxy primer through the clear. I used shop line though. Not DBC. Still cost $900.

don't use any of that ppg high $$$$$$ crap. the best epoxy and 2k primer is SPI.check it out before you waste alot of money.for any questions about body work and what to use go to auto body 101.com.you pay double for anything PPG because you are paying for the name.

I haven't had any issues with etching primer, I hated epoxy b/c it would gum up the sand paper days later!!

Thanks again, will check it out.

Does anyone know how it would work out spraying Epoxy over etching, and then 2k over that?

You can do that with some caution .. some epoxies will interact with the acid in the etching primer.

You have to read all the P-sheets and pay attention to compatibility and re-coat times of all 3 products.