70RR. In process of restoring a non-AC heater box. Already ordered kit from member here

How do you restor the fiberglass box? I see YO sells a kit with cleaner and spray base and top coat... anyone use it? Is there something better etc...?

Also how do you reproduce the yellow part# on the metal plate?

I simply power washed mine. Some guys power wash and then lightly clear. I did not clear mine.

As for the part number. Mine was still visable and I left it. However, I think there is a member that has the stamp or template. Maybe others will chime in.

usually lightly, and i mean lightly blast the fiberglass box. it will turn a lighter gray color. blow it off good and clear with a poly satin finish. the satin poly will bring the color back. i had a stamp company make my stamps for the part numbers.
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I power washed mine as well and scrubbed hard with a brush and Simple Green while concentrating on the "corners". I agree that mine does not need clear on the box. Be careful if powerwashing on concrete, it will scar the box if it moves around. Most people blast the sheetmetal parts and repaint as appropriate. Some high enders zinc plate brackets flap doors and clips. I am going to paint mine.

Make sure if you aren't positive of it's condition to get the heater core checked out. Rivets for the brackets you drill out will be different and many suggest a washer so they won't pull through the fiberglass

I am about half way through mine right now and need the stamp as well. I was going to do with out but if it is available and reasonable, I'd love to hear the source.

PS, you didn't damage the blower motor taking the fan off did you ? I did, and it is not a cheap lesson.

No...got the blower fan off OK...little WD and a some sore fingers...

Was wondering about the brackets that are rivited on... drill them out?

The rest is all apart and have blasted ( glass bead) 1/2 of them... looking good so far

while the subject is at hand.
I have a B-body non air box on the bench now. And the slotted hex head screws for the ft cover are what appear to be black phosphate,maybe zinc but they are definitly black and not silver or clear. Where as on the remainder of the assy holding the box together are clear / silver

it's out of a 67 GTX if it matters

also....how did you restor your resistor plate...looks sweet!

Al, When I started taking this box apart it thought it seemed odd the front plate screws would be black , yet the screws on the back cover and the box halves were clear zinc.Otherwise it's the exact same screw in dimensions and appearence

maybe it's a year thing as this box is supposed to be from a 1967 GTX hardtop

I wouls also be interested in the stamp....mine is 2936681. How did you get it?

Also what paint did you use on the metal parts aftr blasting?

stamps are not that tough to get made. found an online place did a few proofs and had them shipped out in less that a week. usually less than $10 a stamp.

Please share the on line info..

I have a local mom and pop print company make them for me. as long is it doesn't have 'artwork ' on it they usually run in the $10-$15 range .

I had a stamp made for the 69 and down voltage regulator a few months ago as an example and they were about $15 each

Ones with artwok , such as a pentastar for example ran in the $25 each range

Could you share the size and font?

for the 1970 b body non a/c heater box number 2936680 go to http://www.rubberstampchamp.com/custom.aspx?id=30
then go to size 3/4 x 3 and type in 2936680. font- futura book, size 38, bold, with a 1 pt border. nice source to get my stamps for all of these.
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Why would mine show 2936681.... ?

if you can, post a pic. i would like to see it.

I tried your link for the stampings...Thanks...One question, it won't let me use a 1 pt border...It starts at 2...Was this a typo ???