OK, I have what I think is enough cut off the drivers side mount to allow clearance for the oil lines.

I left as much of the original structure as I could and it looks like it would be strong enough to support the gear box as it is now.




I wont know for sure till Dad gets here after work tonight and if I have to cut more out I know it will need reinforced but I'd like to hear your thoughts on how it stands now.

If I leave it like this do you think there will be a problem?

Looks similar to mine.............11 years later street/strip and all`s well.

Good to hear.


My car is race only so it wont have the punishment of street cornering.

Well, so far so good.

Dropped the motor down in and I have plenty of room for all the lines now.





I do need to change out the one end on the rear line to a 45* fitting though.

Anyone else have any thoughts on the gear box mount?

the only thing i can think to do[with engine in car]is bolt a flat piece from the hole in the upper flat area where the hole is going down to the front piece sticking up by drilling a hole in it and bolting at both ends. if you cut a template of cardboard you may find different angle to do things.

Motor is not in the car now Mike.

Not ready to be able to leave t in just yet.

I will say though that snaking the motor plate thought the bars and into place is a lot easier than I thought it would be.

You left more of the mount than I did Bill. Of course, the steering box is of no use for the first 60' anyway. (see below)
Brian Dunnigan

I'd brace that box regardless that it's a drag car. On a SS/AH car I saw one with a tab welded to the frame rail and a hole that would line up with one of the sector shaft cover bolts on the steering box. Something similar to this...

Id brace it. You'd be amazed how much that mount will flex, especially in a panic countersteer slide. It should only take about 5 minutes if you have a welder, so there's no reason not to IMHO.

Friend of mine had one break a few years back and when we fixed it we figured the breakage was caused by the landing after his wheel stands. Are you pulling the wheels much?

BTW, can you rotate the oil line up where it comes out of the front of the pump? If you get it higher it'll help to eliminate oil drain back and dry startups. I have the same 180 fitting on mine. I routed it up and over the top of the pump. I had to make a small notch in the motor plate to clear the oil line. My plate's a lot taller than yours so I had plenty of material left. Just a thought.

I've never seen a pic but I don't think I was yanking em any higher than what your sig pic looks like.

Then again, this motor does have more torgue so who really knows.

If I try rotating the front oil line any more my lower radiator hose wont go on.

I do have a 4 link so I should be able to adjust em so that I don''t pull the front to high right?

I'ld much rather keep em down and shoot out like a rocket than put the nose in the sky.

manual steering box braces are available --contact me @508-864-2597---thanks--dave