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For racing you want to be able to slip the clutch a little to keep from breaking parts. You probably should talk to Ram for the best clutch for your needs. The best clutch for racing probably won't be the best for the street.

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I agree only that SOMETHING has to slip. Most professional racers get into the "mega buck" slipper clutches. I, on the other hand, don't have allot of money. It's my choice to spin my slicks slightly at launch. I am using a Centerforce Dual Friction. Been in for several years with no issues.

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Call Tim Hyatt,

Hyatt Racing Services, Inc.
13429 State Route 86
Painesville, OH 44077
Phone: (440) 254-1311

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I second that recommendation. I put one of his Mcleod based slipper clutches in. Now I don't have to worry about the clutch. Much lighter pedal than the old Hays Pro Stock was. I toasted the clutch that replaced that one in only 8 runs (going from the 383 to a 452 MIGHT have had something to do with it ), hence the going to Tim. If you are on a budget he will work with you and suggest the alternatives. For example, I got an iron ring on the pressure plate instead of an aluminum ring with replaceable faces. Saved several hundred dollars. Of course, it can only be ground so many times; everything is a tradeoff. No problem driving on the street. Just tighten it up for the street, loosen for the track. Now the weak link is the 23 spline but with the slipper clutch it should live for a while yet until someone gives me a Jerico or Nash.

We are running a 70 RR with little lightening which does not help. The engine is a Performance Only built 452 B block with 4.3 S60 rear.

Definitely go to the umtrnorth.com site as Mloboda mentioned. A wealth of information.

Here is the Tim Hyatt clutch. You will need to drill one hole in the transmission mounting face of the scattershield to adjust the pressure. Be sure to mark the harmonic damper so you know when the adjusters align with the adjusting hole. Had the flywheel lightened at the same time. Still neutral balanced of course. It works with a standard throwout bearing, fork and linkage so no changes there. Getting the disk from him is much cheaper than through Mcleod. He just puts in whatever hub your tranny needs. It can even be changed if necessary (say you switch from a 23 spline to an 18 spline).

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AHHH....
Breaths of fresh air.
Are those Tims levers?
Looks great.

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Call Tim Hyatt,

Hyatt Racing Services, Inc.
13429 State Route 86
Painesville, OH 44077
Phone: (440) 254-1311

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I second that recommendation. I put one of his Mcleod based slipper clutches in. Now I don't have to worry about the clutch. Much lighter pedal than the old Hays Pro Stock was. I toasted the clutch that replaced that one in only 8 runs (going from the 383 to a 452 MIGHT have had something to do with it ), hence the going to Tim. If you are on a budget he will work with you and suggest the alternatives. For example, I got an iron ring on the pressure plate instead of an aluminum ring with replaceable faces. Saved several hundred dollars. Of course, it can only be ground so many times; everything is a tradeoff. No problem driving on the street. Just tighten it up for the street, loosen for the track. Now the weak link is the 23 spline but with the slipper clutch it should live for a while yet until someone gives me a Jerico or Nash.

We are running a 70 RR with little lightening which does not help. The engine is a Performance Only built 452 B block with 4.3 S60 rear.

Definitely go to the umtrnorth.com site as Mloboda mentioned. A wealth of information.

Here is the Tim Hyatt clutch. You will need to drill one hole in the transmission mounting face of the scattershield to adjust the pressure. Be sure to mark the harmonic damper so you know when the adjusters align with the adjusting hole. Had the flywheel lightened at the same time. Still neutral balanced of course. It works with a standard throwout bearing, fork and linkage so no changes there. Getting the disk from him is much cheaper than through Mcleod. He just puts in whatever hub your tranny needs. It can even be changed if necessary (say you switch from a 23 spline to an 18 spline).

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Ballpark how much $$$$$ are we talking here ??? and yes i know if you have to ask well ,you probally can't afford it !!! would be cool to see some pics of the flywheel !!

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Including the machine work for the flywheel, ARP stud kit ($30) and shipping ($90 one way) USPS Priority Mail to the Virgin Islands, the least expensive shipping option by far)it was definitely less than just buying a comparable Mcleod with no flywheel machine work but more importantly the service was top notch. I don't feel comfortable quoting a price as that is not fair to Tim. Give him a call, he can give you all your options and you will be surprised how affordable. I think I got very good value and the cost is not too far away from the centerforce options quoted. If you don't have a scattershield installed (which you should) it is even easier to adjust. If you do have a scattershield installed (or even not) take into account the amount of work to change a clutch when looking at costs although obviously people better than me are making various configurations work just fine.

Tim builds the clutch to suit YOUR car. I sent him the dyno sheets from when Dan built the engine. I also provided my weight guesstimate and of course rear gear ratio, tire size. I did not know my tranny ratios for sure but told him it was a stock A833. With this inofrmation he selects base pressures, and counterweights to start with. Along with the clutch is a booklet stating how to break it in, what your spring pressures are, how many turns initially are in the adjusters, what the base pressures are per turn, initial thickness of the disk, what weight counterweights, etc. Very thorough and all included in the price.

Here is the flywheel backside, pretty straightforward. Shaved 11 pounds off, although it was originally a 40 pound Hays flywheel (came with the car so used it), not the stock 30 pound (I think) so really only a little lighter than a stock flywheel. Throttle response is still much improved compared to before.