I used 2x2 , similar weld set up. see if you can brace in the center some how or into the floor pan. Mine twisted and actually buckled the tunnel just behind the cross member. 4 speed cars like to crack the A pillers also.

I thought about triangulating mine in the center some how. Might make 2 oval hoops out of heavy tubing, and go from there. I honestly dont see any issues. Its only a 10.8 to 1 408 with indybrocks, and a solid roller. I dont think Ill do too much damage. i dont ever run slicks, but I might try it.

Kasey

Nice job Kasey, I'm planning on doing similar....just a street fighter

Rickster

Thanks Rick.

Only took me 2 and a half hours, and I had to keep re seting a breaker. The little Miller didnt like getting abused.

Kasey

I agree with quicktree but there is no doubt you have stiffened the car up alot.

My chassis guy cut into the floor and put about 8" of connecter into the frame rails and welded them in.

You guys who had a chassis guy build your stuff have a lot more engine im sure than I do. This thing is a STOCK suspension car so far, and the only real upgrade its gonna get is a set of caltracs and mono springs. Thats really the only reason Im doing anything to it. Because the majority of the time Im gonna be cruising, doing some launches, a few burn outs for the buddies, and thats it. Its really a way over done street car. Its on an 8" rim with 265 75 15s on it, and /6 torsion bars.

Kasey

Exactly how mine were done. Can't tell in your pictures but mine were notched a bit towards the back so that I wouldn't have to cut the floor. I'll have to take a few pics.

Looks great, Kasey! Like you said, A lot of the suggestions or comments you get here are well founded, but overkill for a stock suspension street car. I'm sure you've made a great improvement!

My stock suspension street car bent the drivers side door from a few years of street and track abuse.

Looks real good Kasey

X2 - vertical height is much more important.
But - it's done, that's the bottom line.
If you actually get some wiggle, they can be improved considerably by patching an extra piece 1/2-way down the length on the bottom. A piece of 2-1/2" (to match your width) by 1" tall by 1/8" wall and 6" long is enough to help.

I looked at it for a while today, and I think Im gonna make 2 reinforcements, the rear is getting a plate cut and made to cover the side back about 6" and break and cover the bottom also total about 10". The front is getting a 2 1/2" strap lapped over the weld seam on the very bottom and tords the front stub about 4" and only welded in 2" segments, and skipping 2" and so on.

No need to do a full weld on a cover plate.

Kasey

I still think you should tie in the floor pan in midway. couple pieces of 1/8" x 2" or 3" coming off midway welded to the floor pan would really tighten it up.

I honestly dont see how welding an 1/8" thick piece to some 14guage floor pan material thats flimsy is going to stiffen anything up. I can only see it tearing there if its 2 or 3" long. If I was going to tie it up to the floor pan, Id cut the rear section that floor pan level, and seam weld it inside the car. Ill have to do that when I have the interior out of the car when I redo the seats and headlinner.

Kasey

very nice job Kasey... that should do the trick..

Battery cable is already fixed, I had to cut it so get it out of the hole it was ran through. And the Fuel line has been that way for a LONG time. Its -6 non colapsable braided black Russel line. I do need to move it through the frame rail, but thats it. Its tucked way away from everything.

If ya see an issue, point it out please.

kasey