Quote:

---

At the weight and hp you should be well into the 9s
so you will be getting the chassis certed so plan on
using the NHRA book and I would advise getting ahold
of the cert book/drawings for at least a 8.50 cert

---

Quote:

---

32x17.50 When I measured it was the biggest that I could fit without stretching the wheel well opening. At the time I didn't want to repaint the car, but ended up repainting a couple years later anyway.

I had all the same questions as you. This was my first back half and I was probably too conservative when it came to cutting out the rear suspension and floor pan. I did it in probably 15 or 20 different sections carefully looking for tweaks and bends in the quarter panels, rear deck lid, roof, and glass. If I were to do it again, I'd set the car up square on a jig or jack stands and using a plasma cutter take out the entire back half in one big chunk.

This forum was extremely helpful. I have several gigabytes of pictures saved from the board members. Chris Alstons Chassis Works has some good online articles that were also very helpful during the process. Good luck and let me know if I can be of any help. There are more experienced people on this board that I'm sure will chime in as well. Don't forget to take a bunch of pictures!

Later,

Greg

Ride height at rest:


Suspension unloaded:



32x17.5, don't rub:

---

Thanks GSMopar,

Your Charger looks pretty awesome. I just want to try and think of everything that will affect the build before I actually start the work.

A few more questions:
1) What guage steel is used for the floor and rear firewall?

2) Did you have to cut any of the inner rear panel (where the qtr window goes) where it meets the wheel tub, or can it be left alone and additional metal to fill it to the tub?

3) What rail spacing did you go with? I am not sure whether to go with 24" or 26". I don't think I will be filling the whole tub width with tire if I go with the 32" tire. Is there any benefit to going wider if you don't actually need such wide tubs?


Thanks...I'm sure I'll have a million more.

Greg.

Quote:

---

Thanks so far for the replies. I am doing more research into your recommendations.

GSMopar: What size tire is that? that looks around the size I am planning to run.


Do I have to consider the front end height at all when designing and installing the rear half? I am currently running the drag race torsion bars and the front , naturally, sits very low. That would change if I ever decided to go with an aftermarket k-frame setup.

Also, does the rear tub and floor work actually replace the strength removed from taking out the "V" brace under the package tray steel and also the removal of the quarter to stock wheel well supports. I understand the rollcage and rails will become one, but I am talking more about the outer sheetmetal to that structure. I don't want the quarters/rear outer metal to move around at all.

Thanks again,
greg.

---

Quote:

---

1) What guage steel is used for the floor and rear firewall?

---

Quote:

---

2) Did you have to cut any of the inner rear panel (where the qtr window goes) where it meets the wheel tub, or can it be left alone and additional metal to fill it to the tub?

---

Quote:

---

3) What rail spacing did you go with? I am not sure whether to go with 24" or 26". I don't think I will be filling the whole tub width with tire if I go with the 32" tire. Is there any benefit to going wider if you don't actually need such wide tubs?

---

I didn't buy a pre welded sub frame. I think mine ended up being a little wider than 26 inches, but I don't recall at the moment. I think there is a benefit to going wider on the frame (opposite to what you mentioned above). The car will be more stable as you move the mounting points further apart (shocks and bars, ladder or 4-link). Also, I had very little room left over for wheelie bar mounts on the axle. I probably could have move the frame 2 inches further apart and made things a little easier.

Couple things to consider:

1. Quarter Max, jegs, and a few other companies offer axle mounts for your 4-link that incorporate either the rear shock mount or a wheelie bar mount on the back side. I wish I would have seen these before I started.

2. Seal everything!!! I can't tell you how many tubes of seam sealer I used, but I don't get ANY tire smoke inside the car.

3. 4-link mounts in line with the frame or inside. This is more of an issue with the ladder bar kits, but I'd check when looking at 4-links as well. When your selecting a rear frame, notice where the front bars mount. In line with the frame moves the suspension mounts further out and make the car more stable. However, pay attention to the rest of the frame because this will also decrease suspension travel if done incorrectly.

4-Link in line with frame:


Housing bracket with shock mount:

Quote:

---

Thanks guys. I am looking into everything and gathering some more questions to ask.

One more thing, with the kits, does the rear frame rails end up lining up with the rear stock crossmember? just trying to figure out where it will end up lining up...as I gather the frame rails are installed on a specific angle to the car.

Thanks,
Greg.

---