I've decided to use the Pertronix ignitor 2 and flamethrower coil on my 440-6 rebuild. The distributor is a stock remanufactured (Cardone) single points, single vacuum. Before I install the Pertronix I was wondering what, if any, adjustments I should make to the stock mechanical advance. I've read various opinions about swapping out the springs, welding/grinding the slots, et al.

I'm also interested in advice for setting up the Pertronix and timing for new engine startup.

I've been running the Petronix set-ups in everything from Forklifts, to trucks at work, and in the Toys at home,...as well as converted some Lean-Burn Chrysler set-ups over to it,....if installed properly, with the right componets, it will be your only choice you'll ever want to use!




Use the Ignitor II set-up with Petronix's Flame Thrower II ignition coil, they offer a chrome or factory style black coil, I usually run the epoxy filled version, vs the oil filled unit,...the Flame Thrower II coil is different, rating wise vs the stock Chrysler Coil, the Flame Thrower is 3 Ohm/ 100:1 turn ratio, vs the Chrysler 17 Ohm/ 70:1 Turn ratio,....I'd recommend either a new/rebuilt Chrysler single point dist be used, as a worn shaft bushing in a high mileage dist will shorten/kill the HallCell, when you install the Pertronix HallCell, some do's and dont's,....Do not remove the GREEN tape off the pick up magnet, do not gap the unit with any metal feelers, a plastic feeler is supplied (.040 thick), use a quality brass contact dist cap, not an aluminum terminal unit, eliminate the ballast resistor from the wiring, simple instructions are included in the kit,....do not run Solid Core ignition wires, as this will kill the HallCell, if ever trouble shooting the ignition, never leave the key on in the ignition position for more than 30 seconds, as this will destroy the HallCell, if you must troubleshoot the cars electrical for some time, disconnect the RED Pertronix lead from the Coil,....when you initialy install the Pertronix HallCell/pick-up, it will re-phase your timing on start-up, it will vary from =/- 5-15 degrees advaced or retarted, depending on where your current timming is, if your converting it in the car, so it may not start after installation, because timing my be way off,...check/confirm

I usually rum Bosch Platnium single and/or multi tip Bosch Platnium plugs, the ones that stock Chrysler Electronic Ignitions can't even fire, never mind run

I've never had any problems, or issuses, or "dead" Pertronix systems,..in close to 15+ years of using them

Mike

If this is a new eng breakin which I gathered it is I'd break it in w whatever the current functioning system is because as you know you want it to light off IMMED & bring it to ~2500. When setting up I'd set the balancer timing marks 2&1/4" CW from TDC w it on #1 compression (which is 35.5 deg total) and twist the rotor until the springs are maxed out/hold it there/turn dist housing until (w #1 cap terminal over the rotor) the nearest reluctor blade is dead even w the magnet slot & lightly snug the housing. Assuming your springs are light enough for the slots/weights to be maxed out @ 2500 this'll give you ~35 degrees total when you fire it & bring the rpm up to 2500. release the rotor & check what this puts your initial at, w the rotor retracted hand turn the crank CW until the same reluctor is again lined up w the magnet & see what the timing marks show as you need ~10-15 initial for the critical immediate/quick fireup. I'm assuming you had a ballpark good slot length in the other dist b 4 pertronix.

hey mike, do they have just a distributor insert alone w/o a new coil? so engine looks all original? or do u have to have both? i have a concourse factory restored car and need it to stay looking that way as much as possible. But i am leaning on elec ignition now??

Robert
Thx for procedure. I took the remanufactured distr apart today to check the slots and replace the heavy spring. The slot plate was marked "13" which IIRC equates to 26deg crank advance. My cam has a 226deg duration @.050 which should need about 15-16deg initial advance. The 26deg would put the total adv at 41-42, too much. I welded the slot to put it at about 36-37 full advance.

While I had the distr apart I replaced the heavy spring with a stock light spring from another mopar distr. Should bring in full vacuum earlier, by 2500-2600. Its a Pertronix setup so no reluctor.

hey mike, do they have just a distributor insert alone w/o a new coil? so engine looks all original? or do u have to have both? i have a concourse factory restored car and need it to stay looking that way as much as possible. But i am leaning on elec ignition now??

---

Brian, the Pertronix Ignitor II is installed under the stock cap, fits on the stock point plate, no mods/drilling/etc needed, it like installing points and a condensor, just screw it on the breaker plate,...there's an additional wire that now exits the dist to the coil,....you could run a "factory" coil, but the output is diminished, and the HallCell's life will be shortened,...Pertronix has a "factory" looking black epoxy filled coil, that you could stencil up to look even more "factory"

As i stated earlier the Pertronix coil has a 100:1 turn ratio and 3 Ohm rating, vs the Factory 70:1 TR and 17 ohm rating,....in some of my applications I like it to look factory also,..even though I eliminate the ballast resistor, I still hang one on the firewall, but run dummy wires to it

Mike

Mike, thx for response. Since the Pertronix will re-phase the timing as you describe, what would be the best procedure to setup timing for new engine startup?

---

Rich,...I would start the engine with the point set-up and convert to the Pertronix after I've sorted thru engine break in, and any problems that might arise during that period, the Pertronix conversion is straight forward tuning basics, no surprises, if your current ignition system is in top order, you should have no difficulties swapping over to the Pertronix

Mike

Rich,...I would start the engine with the point set-up and convert to the Pertronix after I've sorted thru engine break in, and any problems that might arise during that period, the Pertronix conversion is straight forward tuning basics, no surprises, if your current ignition system is in top order, you should have no difficulties swapping over to the Pertronix

Mike

---

Mike, good suggestion! Thx! I assume that means using a stock coil as well for initial startup.

Robert, thx for the procedure!