Anyone know or have experience using Indy's 360 heads in a Magnum application?

What I want to know is do they (or can they) have the correct number of bolt holes and spacing in the ends of the heads for the Magnum accessories?

I found these but they only mention that the kit uses magnum Pushrod oiling. Which doesn't cover all the differences for using them on a Magnum Motor.

http://www.usaperform.com/indy-small-block-chrysler-magnum-kits-1992up-p-1018.html

Was curious!!! I know they will fit the blcok and work, but will they accept all the extras?

LA and magnums have the accessory holes on the end in the same place, but the magnums are all on the same plane,and the lower outer one on an LA is about 1" rearward. worst case, you may have to use a spacer and longer bolt for whatever bolts in that location on a magnum.

you could also drill the cam journals and use LA cam bearings on the magnum to oil LA style

Magnum heads have 5 holes in the ends of the heads for mounting accessories where as an LA has 3.

OR I could drill the missing hole in the fire deck (The passage is there just not drilled).

I want to stick with the Magnum configuration as much as possible.

None of the rest of the top end would work anymore correct? Would need to use their manifold right?

Yes!! That is the easy part with Indy. If you buy their Head Kit it comes with everything.

Fully Assembled heads, Rockers, Valve Covers (I think), and Intake.

The intake has Injector Bosses in it if you want to stay EFI. Just send it to Wilson Manifolds and they will install FuelRails and associated hardware and attachment points for $325.

You would just need to get Pushrods to match.

I ask this because Dave had to have an adapter plate Machined to make his Magnum Accessories work with his W-5 heads on a Magnum R-3 block.

I'm not sure how different W-5's are from Stock LA heads as far as accessory mounting points.

I know W-8,9 and 9-RP. forget!!!

I also know KRC did a set of brodix heads for a Magnum application and had to do some custom welding/fabrication to use the Magnum accessories there as well.

From what I can see and tell from pictures of the Indy heads it's just a matter of actually putting the holes where they need to be. I just wanted a confirmation if that is true. Preferably from some one that has done it or seen it.

I like the idea of the heads, I don't like the idea of having to replace everything I already have. Plus I also like using the aluminum, already adding extra weight using the Race block. Also with the Indy setup there is there a way to get the crossover hose to work? Looks like the old style hose but I could be wrong. I have to look at the pictures again. I want to keep my heat. What size runners are the Indy's?

I'm not to up to speed on that many of the details on the Indy heads. I wanted to make sure they could be used before I went too in depth on the details.

As for you block being too heavy.

Give RyanJ a call. He has a CNC program that can knock off about 50-60lbs and also get rid of the motor mounts that you don't use.

Yea, I talked to him already. The cost benefit is not worth it to me. Ask Ryan about drilling it for the Magnum accessories.

OK!!

I was thinking someone had already done this and that it may be an option directly from Indy.

Look like the heads are a flat surface on the ends all the way from the intake side to the exhaust side. if so then it wouldn't be a problem to add the extra holes as needed.

Yea, I think Ryan does it already or at least has the dimensions to be able to do it. Work an email though.

They don't work easily from what I have experienced so far. Be ready to fabricate. There is not much thickness on the end face of the head. I drilled one hole to tap it and wished I didn't.

If I were to do this, here is what I would do. Mock up the block and heads with head gaskets. Install timing cover and then see if the Mag acc bracket will fit. Does it hit the heads? Is there a gap? Get an indexing punch through the bracket holes and mark the heads. You'll need to have some solid stand offs made that will get welded to head (this is what KRC did with the Brodix heads and it's probably the best idea) and also spot face the back of the acc bracket the required amount. Basically drill a small 1/4" hole in the head about 1/8" deep at each mark. Make the standoffs 1/2" long with a register to fit in that hole. Have them welded to heads, then drill and tap the stand offs for whatever size bolt you wanna use to mount bracket. I suppose you could tap them before welding, but I'd leave a bolt in them to keep them from ovaling when welding.

gotta be honest with you..1/2 the kit is poo poo..rockers,pushrods you will wanna change them if ur lookin to put some 600hp or better and go through a dealer like Ryanj because if something is wrong with em,,you'll get stuck..other then that they make tons of power for a 59* head.