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How did you guys do the "black out" detailing? Hope I didn't hijack?

64Savoy

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i've done grills and trim with EZ Off as well. you need the "heavy duty" formula, not the fume free one. leave it of for 20-30 minutes, scrub with a green 3M pad, rinse well, and see what you have. you might have to redo sections, with tougher clear on it, but it works. polish when you're done, and clear coat it again, or it will get dull pretty quick. after polishing, but before clear coating, i've done the black, by masking the grill with "photo frisket" and using an exacto knife to cut out the stripes and letters, then hitting with satin black paint. just make sure the black is compatible with the clear coat you chose.

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photo frisket is like clear masking tape, but it comes in sheets. for covering a larger area, then trimming away what you dont need. i also use blue painters tape, and visqueen if i dont have the frisket. i like the frisket, because it's transparent, so you can easily see what you are trimming against, and if there's an air bubble, it's also quite visible. the paints you choose, should be compatible. if you use SEM trim black, use SEM clear, etc. just depends if you are going to use an airbrush, rattle cans or spray gun, and what you're comfortable shooting. i like SEM or PPG, but really anything you are happy with, is best. as mentioned above, i also will use a small detail brush, for getting into tight spots, or detailing emblems, etc.

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photo frisket is like clear masking tape, but it comes in sheets. for covering a larger area, then trimming away what you dont need. i also use blue painters tape, and visqueen if i dont have the frisket. i like the frisket, because it's transparent, so you can easily see what you are trimming against, and if there's an air bubble, it's also quite visible. the paints you choose, should be compatible. if you use SEM trim black, use SEM clear, etc. just depends if you are going to use an airbrush, rattle cans or spray gun, and what you're comfortable shooting. i like SEM or PPG, but really anything you are happy with, is best. as mentioned above, i also will use a small detail brush, for getting into tight spots, or detailing emblems, etc.

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Thanks. Now to find this stuff!!

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I stripped the annodizing on a number of parts and then buffed a shine back into them after straightening. Go buy a can of Drano kitchen crystals. Dissolve some with hot water in a container large enough to hold your part. Drop the part in. It will start bubbling like a soda pretty quickly. Within 20 minutes your part will have a gray coating of smut. Take it out and rinse/rub thoroughly. No more annodizing.



It's the Sodium Hydroxide (lye) that does the work. Same ingredient in oven cleaner. Trust me, your part won't disappear in the solution and it only takes a few minutes.

Pics here: http://70duster440.com/grilleresto.html

Oven cleaner WILL discolor cast aluminum (like a transmission case). The warnings on the can are more about discoloration than destroying the part. Turns dark gray.

Oh, and don't forget rubber gloves and face protection as a safety precaution.

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