what needs to change here, this is how the rear segment rides, its on the frame rails, i think its time to address this, best 60 1.44 rear is real stiff

2

I know guys will section the frame so the bottom part sits in the sectioned area of the frame.

The also move the top part higher up in the frame to lower the back of the car.
I would look at the front suspension first. It needs to be extremely loose up and down, and smooth all the way to top. I use RMS upper A arms, and front struts, double nutted my bottom shock mount and loosened my Koni front shocks to get the car to "drive" under the frontend and "lift" the front with no effort sending all the weight to the rear tires.
Once you do this, then you should be able to leave at a higher rpm bettering your 60ft. If more rpm does not help, I would look at your converter. You want the rear to be stiff and do everything you can to encourage the the rear suspension to seperate the body from the tires.
Brian

Shackles should look like this when the
suspension is unloaded.

What body style are these on? I am assuming yours is an A-Body.
I have this set up on my E-Body & it is not that close to the frame rail. Mine has over an inch or so.

Put a pair of sliders in it.
Steve

You need longer shackles and/or move the frame mounting point. I had to make slightly longer shackles for my Duster with monoleafs. I just bought some of those rear lift shackles (I know, I know) and cut them down so I had clearance between the spring eye and the frame rail. I talked to Calvert about this and they weren't sure why some of them hit and others didn't, I told him because the ones that hit the frame rail have had the springs moved inboard to the frame rail.

Are you sure you have the correct springs. That looks like E or B body springs on an A body. I have had CalTrac monos on two different A bodies and neither did that...

Are you sure you have the right segments for your body style? They look to be too long. There is a difference between a-body and b-body.

It also depends on the arch, I got my mono's -4" arch so they were virtually flat. That lengthens the spring.

I always order the 1" lowered version.

You would hope that Calvert would be smart enough to change the segment length for significantly different ride heights !!!!

Mine are touching the frame. They told me to take the Monos apart and drill new holes in the rear segment and reassemble so that they would be 1" shorter. Havn't done it yet.

Mine are close, but not touching the frame. +1

Loosen the front end as much as possible.

The springs should not hit the frame.
Like I posted, the springs should hang straight down or angled slightly toward the front of the
car when unloaded.
You either have the wrong springs or you drilled the shackle mount too far forward on the frame.

It looks like he has the springs moved in under the frame rail. This problem is not uncommon. I have had to knotch the frame on a and b body cars to get them to fit right. It is not just a mono leaf problem. When the car is down on the springs the rear shacle should be laying back like it is. When the body seperates as that shackle goes threw its arch it is actually planting the tire better.

front end has plenty of travel, rear end is moved back 1" so I think thats where the interference starts thanks for th suggestions, Mike

My springs are moved in also, so are most of the people's on this site.
I didn't have to notch my frame and neither should you.
Take the car to a shop that know's what they are doing next time.